how to protect direct seeded acorns

Mitch

Mitch

Active Member
I'm stratifying over 200 bur oak acorns in the fridge right now. Every single one of these are going to be direct seeded this year. I need a cost efficient way to keep them from getting eaten. I've used metal flashing in the past and that works okay. But I also have 200 acorns to protect lol
I wouldn't think chicken wire would keep out mice.

Any ideas?
 
I am interesting to see what others post. I spread roughly 2,000 acorns this fall in a hope that even 1% germinate and make it. I will be direct seeding some sawtooth in the spring and am not looking forward to having to protect them all as well. I figure I am going to have to make small exclusion cages or use tree tubes to have any real chance. I may even simply grow them in a mulch bed and then transplant them later.
 
I've used thin walled PVC with aluminum window screen to cap it. Cheap and easy but you have to be careful when you remove the pvc as it will pull a plug of dirt out with it (along with your seedling). You still have to protect the seedling with something else like a cage or tube once it outgrows the screen. The yr I did this I had very good germination rates but didn't protect the seedlings after they outgrew the pvc tube. Many are still alive but not much taller than the tube as they continually get nipped off.

I'm still trying to invent a better method...
 
Thanks for posting that. I just did a search on here and found an old post with the same info :)
Probably should have searched before I asked. How do you secure the window screen to the pvc?
 
I don't secure it. Simply role it smaller (like a newspaper you want whack your kid with), insert it, and then release it inside the tube. It'll expand when you let go and stay pretty solid. I live in Kansas and have plenty of wind, these didn't stray around.
 
My newest plans involve: an electric fence post, a 3 gallon nursery pot (a bucket) with most of the bottom cut out, and wire mesh. My goal is cheap and easy to make, but durable and tall enough to set it and walk away for several yrs. I'm not convinced my new plan is very good though so nothing is built and no pics. I'll post pics if I ever figure something out.
 
I knew the answer to that question lol
I have a feeder set up on one section of my land and they rarely bother it believe it or not. I'll probably give your method a try with the pvc/window screen and try to finagle some kind of exclusion cage around the pvc. I'll figure something out.
 
catscratch said:
I've used thin walled PVC with aluminum window screen to cap it. Cheap and easy but you have to be careful when you remove the pvc as it will pull a plug of dirt out with it (along with your seedling). You still have to protect the seedling with something else like a cage or tube once it outgrows the screen. The yr I did this I had very good germination rates but didn't protect the seedlings after they outgrew the pvc tube. Many are still alive but not much taller than the tube as they continually get nipped off.

I'm still trying to invent a better method...
Click to expand...
I like the idea. You at least reach the point of germination. Something that can help with your "pulling the soil plug" issue would slitting the wall of the tube. This would allow you to flex it and should allow the release from the soil cleaner.....maybe. I may give this a shot and let you know. How long a piece of PVC you use....roughly? I'm thinking 12" or so. If you have issues with the screen pulling off you could use a few shallow screws to hold the screen on the OD of the pipe as well - or like everything else I have .......wrap it in duct tape! Maybe even hold on with a large hose clamp.
 
Lol, I used duct tape on my first one. Decided it was too much work and quit. I don't think I had a single screen pull out, just make it long enough to fit a deep into the tube.
Around 12in long.
 
Simply depends what you want to protect the seedlings from.Personally,I build a large electric fence enclosure,3 strands inside and 2 strands outside.If I direct seeded,which I will this month and mnext month,I would get them in the ground somehow,I like a long handle of a hoe with the hoe gone or something like that.Make a hole,drop a nut and smash with your foot. The electric fence enclosure is a work of art,that will protect multiple chestnut trees that Wayne and I get started.Also in there will be Dwarf Chinkapin oaks.
 
I have a thread around here somewhere,look for it on this forum.Basically,its 2 different fences that have wires at different heights that confuse the deer so they don't believe they can jump over it.If I can find the thread,Ill pull it to the top.
 
Can you hold the acorns until spring and then seed. Thats usually my method, but takes up space in the fridge. You could probably get by leaving them in an unheated garage or something.
 
They are in the fridge at school. I have a full size fridge in my office
I wasn't going to direct seed until they began to produce a radicle.


Sent from my iPhone using Deer Hunter Forum
 
I've posted this before; probably on the older forum ..... I try to direct seed whenever possible since it's natures way of ensuring you get a well anchored tree with the ability to secure subsoil moisture when rain is light (the 2 major functions of a tap root). Here is my method as shared with a fellow from TX who asked how I direct seeded.

Originally Posted by OakSeeds

Even though I am planting a small acorn, I prepare a "planting hole" that is 2-3 feet in diameter and 12-18 inches deep. I plant the acorn (lay it on it's side so the radical grows downward) about 3-4 inches deep (it will be only a couple inches under the soil after moisture compacts the loose soil in the planting hole). I cover the acorn with a piece of hardware cloth or other piece of metal to keep squirrels/other rodents from eating the acorn. I take a 3-gal black plastic landscape pot and cut the bottom out of it; then, I place the pot over the planted acorn and push it down 2-4 inches into the loose soil. The landscape pot serves 3 important purposes; first, it helps to keep rodents and rabbits away from the newly planted acorn or newly growing seedling. Second, the black plastic absorbs sunlight and gives me a greenhouse effect in the early spring with cool days. 3rd, the pot makes watering the tree very efficient with no runoff; all the water goes directly down to the root zone. Finally, I almost always place a cage over the newly planted tree; if you don't, it is very likely deer will browse the central leader off them (make bushes of you tree). I always give direct seeded acorns a good watering when I plant them to ensure the radical has good contact with the soil and that it has the moisture necessary to promote growth. Good luck; contact me if I can be of help in any way.
Thank you very much!!
QUOTE=TreeXXXXX I enjoy your threads on direct seeding oaks very much
What is your method of direct seeding white oak acorns in the fall?
Thank you very much.....bill XXXXXX - XXXXX Texas
Sorry, it's a little long - hope it helps someone
 
Last edited:
Oakseeds said:
I've posted this before; probably on the older forum ..... I try to direct seed whenever possible since it's natures way of ensuring you get a well anchored tree with the ability to secure subsoil moisture when rain is light (the 2 major functions of a tap root). Here is my method as shared with a fellow from TX who asked how I direct seeded.

Originally Posted by OakSeeds

Even though I am planting a small acorn, I prepare a "planting hole" that is 2-3 feet in diameter and 12-18 inches deep. I plant the acorn (lay it on it's side so the radical grows downward) about 3-4 inches deep (it will be only a couple inches under the soil after moisture compacts the loose soil in the planting hole). I cover the acorn with a piece of hardware cloth or other piece of metal to keep squirrels/other rodents from eating the acorn. I take a 3-gal black plastic landscape pot and cut the bottom out of it; then, I place the pot over the planted acorn and push it down 2-4 inches into the loose soil. The landscape pot serves 3 important purposes; first, it helps to keep rodents and rabbits away from the newly planted acorn or newly growing seedling. Second, the black plastic absorbs sunlight and gives me a greenhouse effect in the early spring with cool days. 3rd, the pot makes watering the tree very efficient with no runoff; all the water goes directly down to the root zone. Finally, I almost always place a cage over the newly planted tree; if you don't, it is very likely deer will browse the central leader off them (make bushes of you tree). I always give direct seeded acorns a good watering when I plant them to ensure the radical has good contact with the soil and that it has the moisture necessary to promote growth. Good luck; contact me if I can be of help in any way.
Thank you very much!!
QUOTE=TreeXXXXX I enjoy your threads on direct seeding oaks very much
What is your method of direct seeding white oak acorns in the fall?
Thank you very much.....bill XXXXXX - XXXXX Texas
Sorry, it's a little long - hope it helps someone
Click to expand...
Great post (I've seen it before) and is the reason I stopped at the local nursery a couple of months ago and picked up 30 free pots.
 
Oakseeds said:
I've posted this before; probably on the older forum ..... I try to direct seed whenever possible since it's natures way of ensuring you get a well anchored tree with the ability to secure subsoil moisture when rain is light (the 2 major functions of a tap root). Here is my method as shared with a fellow from TX who asked how I direct seeded.

Originally Posted by OakSeeds

Even though I am planting a small acorn, I prepare a "planting hole" that is 2-3 feet in diameter and 12-18 inches deep. I plant the acorn (lay it on it's side so the radical grows downward) about 3-4 inches deep (it will be only a couple inches under the soil after moisture compacts the loose soil in the planting hole). I cover the acorn with a piece of hardware cloth or other piece of metal to keep squirrels/other rodents from eating the acorn. I take a 3-gal black plastic landscape pot and cut the bottom out of it; then, I place the pot over the planted acorn and push it down 2-4 inches into the loose soil. The landscape pot serves 3 important purposes; first, it helps to keep rodents and rabbits away from the newly planted acorn or newly growing seedling. Second, the black plastic absorbs sunlight and gives me a greenhouse effect in the early spring with cool days. 3rd, the pot makes watering the tree very efficient with no runoff; all the water goes directly down to the root zone. Finally, I almost always place a cage over the newly planted tree; if you don't, it is very likely deer will browse the central leader off them (make bushes of you tree). I always give direct seeded acorns a good watering when I plant them to ensure the radical has good contact with the soil and that it has the moisture necessary to promote growth. Good luck; contact me if I can be of help in any way.
Thank you very much!!
QUOTE=TreeXXXXX I enjoy your threads on direct seeding oaks very much
What is your method of direct seeding white oak acorns in the fall?
Thank you very much.....bill XXXXXX - XXXXX Texas
Sorry, it's a little long - hope it helps someone
Click to expand...
EXCELLENT......calling nurserys today and see what I can find :)
 
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