Honeysuckle trim back from access roads

[BearCreek]

After finally getting the aerial quote, I am out. Hoping the drone world has something to offer in the near future.

I’m “tapped” with this place and in general. The real reason I would want to clear the BH is for better browse for deer and not having the chit spread further. It appears to be great cover and I bought this place for deer… not ecological warfare via checkbook.


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Keep the faith. I think the drone systems are going to be an incredible resource in the near future. They are very precise and prices should come down. I have plans this fall to test drone spraying at my property on various invasives this fall. I will report back. Oddly enough, I noticed a lot of my remaining BH did not produce fruit this year. Maybe the drought did something worthwhile.

 

[Mennoniteman]

Unfortunately, many landowners are going to be in your boat. Spending thousands to combat a plant that some folks still promote. Even on the properties where people claim honeysuckle is the best species for deer because of some other circumstance, such as those laid out above, you have to remember that while that may be the best option for deer (debatable) it certainly isn't for any species that requires succulent plants or sunlight.

I don't have much issue with any non-native plants that aren't invasive, your property, your choice. However, invasive non-natives are problem for everyone. I battle reed canary grass over large portions of my property every year because someone upstream thought that was a good idea to plant.

I also realized I never answered OP's question regarding the best way to trim BH, I would recommend cutting it to three inches off ground and lightly spraying stump with Triclopyr/Imazapyr mix (I jest).

You are spot on with your observations, right now Bush Honeysuckle is destroying timber regeneration on one of my properties, and I'm going to have to go in and manually do what you just said, cut and spray stump with triclopyr& diesel fuel, a crazy amount of work to save my timber. And don't worry, there will still be plenty left in the neighborhood for the deer when I'm done.
My observation with Bush Honeysuckle that it promotes an allelopathic plant desert where nothing else grows and Bush Honeysuckle only provides 3 seasons of deer food and lets them starve in January and February for lack of anything else to browse. The main problem with Bush Honeysuckle is that it's a monoculture, it takes over and crowds out every other plant, this is nasty stuff for sure.

 

[gjs4]

Keep the faith. I think the drone systems are going to be an incredible resource in the near future. They are very precise and prices should come down. I have plans this fall to test drone spraying at my property on various invasives this fall. I will report back. Oddly enough, I noticed a lot of my remaining BH did not produce fruit this year. Maybe the drought did something worthwhile.

Keep us posted


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[MarkDarvin]

I take my trail maintenance very seriously. Every weekend I'm in the woods, I carry my silky on a lap around to make sure nothing needs to be pruned. I do not tolerate any deterioration on the quality of my trails. I keep them clean, keep the brush back, and I pick up any and all new sticks that fall on my trails. I also do not drive on them if they are prone to getting rutted up. So, to answer the OP's question, here's the response I'd take depending on how bad the encroachment is:

Level 1: By hand with a silky
Level 2: By hand with a chainsaw
Level 3: Push it back with a skid steer
Level 4: Rip it out with an excavator

I'm building some new garden beds next year. I have tag alder that is constantly growing over my trails and it needs to be cut back every year. I'm pondering harvesting all of it to put in my garden beds as carbon filler.

 

[Mennoniteman]

I take my trail maintenance very seriously. Every weekend I'm in the woods, I carry my silky on a lap around to make sure nothing needs to be pruned. I do not tolerate any deterioration on the quality of my trails. I keep them clean, keep the brush back, and I pick up any and all new sticks that fall on my trails. I also do not drive on them if they are prone to getting rutted up. So, to answer the OP's question, here's the response I'd take depending on how bad the encroachment is:

Level 1: By hand with a silky
Level 2: By hand with a chainsaw
Level 3: Push it back with a skid steer
Level 4: Rip it out with an excavator

I'm building some new garden beds next year. I have tag alder that is constantly growing over my trails and it needs to be cut back every year. I'm pondering harvesting all of it to put in my garden beds as carbon filler.

That's my dream, I'd like to take care of my trails that good.

 

[MarkDarvin]

That's my dream, I'd like to take care of my trails that good.

I seem to never stop working on my trails. This year I spent another half day with the Bobcat E50 straightening out my work trails, pulling stumps, fixing ruts, raising low spots, cutting drainage ditches, making new trails, and installing culverts. I never did get to finish grade one section, and that's bothering me. I'm afraid it's going to turn green before I get out there with the leveling bar.

I do it so I can get to my blinds quietly and without rubbing any vegetation. I also don't like getting hit in the face with brush or scuffing equipment as i'm tooling around. And a smooth ride is quite pleasant for the spine.

 

[Mennoniteman]

I seem to never stop working on my trails. This year I spent another half day with the Bobcat E50 straightening out my work trails, pulling stumps, fixing ruts, raising low spots, cutting drainage ditches, making new trails, and installing culverts. I never did get to finish grade one section, and that's bothering me. I'm afraid it's going to turn green before I get out there with the leveling bar.

I do it so I can get to my blinds quietly and without rubbing any vegetation. I also don't like getting hit in the face with brush or scuffing equipment as i'm tooling around. And a smooth ride is quite pleasant for the spine.

I fully agree on the value of nice woods roads. My problem is that I have over 15 miles of roads without counting walking paths, and I could use some more. My favorite tool is a Milwaukee cordless plot saw, once I walk a road that has a tree canopy over it, trimming with the pole saw, it's good for about 3-4 years with minimal trimming. A trail with no canopy needs work every year, but can be opened up with a bush hog

 

[MarkDarvin]

I fully agree on the value of nice woods roads. My problem is that I have over 15 miles of roads without counting walking paths, and I could use some more. My favorite tool is a Milwaukee cordless plot saw, once I walk a road that has a tree canopy over it, trimming with the pole saw, it's good for about 3-4 years with minimal trimming. A trail with no canopy needs work every year, but can be opened up with a bush hog

I've got around 1.5 miles of trails maybe. I've actually begun reducing the amount of trail I maintain. I'm trying to get parts of my property to blend and blur the property line back into the federal land behind me. I've had issues over the last 6 years I've had my place where mature bucks won't cross that pickup trail that is my boundary between me and the federal land. I' planted about 60 spruce trees back there, quit mowing, and quit using those sections of trail to get that going. I also moved my tower blind off that line and back into the property as well.

I agree on the closed canopy trails. Much easier to maintain. One or two trips with the mower per year and they're good. My partially and fully open trails are much harder to keep in shape.