Does anyone have experience running a Firminator G3 with a quick hitch? I have the harbor freight one. I’m asking because I’ll be getting a hydraulic top link and I believe the quick hitch will change my top link working length. I’m worried if I size one to run the rake and box blade off the quick hitch but then the Firminator isn’t working well with the hitch, I’ll be out of luck when I run it without the quick hitch. Thanks!
Firminator with Quick Hitch?
- Thread starter Matlax
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Mennoniteman
Well-Known Member
I do not have a Firminator G3, however I do have a quick hitch and a hydraulic toplink. I'm sure you've figured out already that a quick hitch does not change a tractors toplink working length at all. A quick hitch lengthens all three points of the 3-point hitch exactly the same, therefore moving 3-point attachments several inches further away from the tractor, but not changing the angle of attack or changing toplink length any, and a hydraulic toplink has enough travel to use it without the quick hitch without running into a length issue if you get it short enough. The main thing that it does change is needing a longer PTO shaft on any PTO equipment, but that is rarely an issue for most PTO shafts have plenty of adjustment. I see what you are saying about being too long without the quick hitch, but I would not advise removing the quick hitch, it takes too much time and effort, and shouldn't make a bit of difference with your Firminator.
What you need to do is measure the length of your toplink at the average working length that you use it on your different equipment, and then make sure that you buy one of the correct length, where the range of travel length is centered close to the normal working length of your current toplink. If there is a variable there, I would prefer my toplink to be an inch too short rather than an inch too long, since I tilt a lot of my equipment towards the tractor for transport and maintenance purposes, but I rarely tilt equipment past level backwards for any reason. Being an inch or two shorter should also take care of your concern about using the toplink without the quick hitch.
Also, I'm sure you know this, but you really need 2 sets of hydraulic outlets for a hydraulic toplink, one set for the toplink, and one set to run hydraulic equipment with. IMO a quick hitch and a hydraulic toplink is must have equipment for a tractor, it's a huge time-saver, it really makes using 3-point equipment a whole lot easier and faster.
An FYI for anyone interested in getting a quick hitch, the worst thing is that 3-point standard measurements vary by manufacturer and I had to change hole sizes and spacings on some of my equipment to get it to all fit the same. A lot of manufacturers use category 3N size measurements with category 2 hole sizes, which doesn't fit any quick hitch right out of the box. 3N is category 2 width with category 3 height, a very common spacing found on a lot of 50 to 80 horsepower equipment, but found on zero quick attach hitches. There are several different work around options, I have a 3N quick hitch and it fits all of my equipment if I use bushings to adapt all of my holes to category 2. Yes, it sounds mind boggling, but a onetime purchase of bushings off of Amazon takes care of it.
What you need to do is measure the length of your toplink at the average working length that you use it on your different equipment, and then make sure that you buy one of the correct length, where the range of travel length is centered close to the normal working length of your current toplink. If there is a variable there, I would prefer my toplink to be an inch too short rather than an inch too long, since I tilt a lot of my equipment towards the tractor for transport and maintenance purposes, but I rarely tilt equipment past level backwards for any reason. Being an inch or two shorter should also take care of your concern about using the toplink without the quick hitch.
Also, I'm sure you know this, but you really need 2 sets of hydraulic outlets for a hydraulic toplink, one set for the toplink, and one set to run hydraulic equipment with. IMO a quick hitch and a hydraulic toplink is must have equipment for a tractor, it's a huge time-saver, it really makes using 3-point equipment a whole lot easier and faster.
An FYI for anyone interested in getting a quick hitch, the worst thing is that 3-point standard measurements vary by manufacturer and I had to change hole sizes and spacings on some of my equipment to get it to all fit the same. A lot of manufacturers use category 3N size measurements with category 2 hole sizes, which doesn't fit any quick hitch right out of the box. 3N is category 2 width with category 3 height, a very common spacing found on a lot of 50 to 80 horsepower equipment, but found on zero quick attach hitches. There are several different work around options, I have a 3N quick hitch and it fits all of my equipment if I use bushings to adapt all of my holes to category 2. Yes, it sounds mind boggling, but a onetime purchase of bushings off of Amazon takes care of it.
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Thanks Mennonite! Is the idea that the quick hitch is nor further away than the implements would normally be so the only real change is the fulcrum point shifting away from the tractor? I guess that means smaller adjustments lengthening or shortening the top link have a mir pronounced effect on the height of the rear of the implement?
Mennoniteman
Well-Known Member
When I still had my manual screw adjusting toplink with my quick hitch before I got the hydraulic toplink I didn't notice much difference in adjusting toplink length because of the several inches that my three point equipment was further away from the rear wheels of the tractor. It didn't seem to be enough distance to effect the angles or anything. But I do know that I will never go back to a manual toplink, I don't miss jumping off the tractor all the time to adjust a few turns. Same with the quick hitch, all of my equipment needs to fit it or I will sell/ modify it. I'm never going back to pins and clips and kicking/ leveraging 3-point arms to attach equipment. Now if they only made quick attach PTO...
I'd check with Firminator to see if they have any advice. I have an RTP Genesis, and they generally (not absolutely) recommend against quick hitches. They say that moving a heavy drill back is problematic for SOME tractor/drill combos because of the weight. They also mention that quick hitches aren't standardized, so they all don't fit their drills.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
I can't speak to the Firminator, but I do have a hydraulic top-link. Best investment I ever made. I no longer use a quick hitch. I store implements that have mechanical parts in my barn on dollies, so hookup is very ease if you can move the implement. The arms on my DK45 have extensions that are about 6". With those and the hydraulic top-link, I just need to back up to the all iron implements (like a box blade or rear blade ...) that I store outside and get close. Hook-up is quite quick.
I previously used a quick hitch, but found it did not work out well for some implements and the hydraulic top-link removed the need. For example, I have s small Kasco 4' no-till drill for the 3-point hitch. I found that you get gaps with a 3-point hitch drill on un-even ground as it gets lifted in spots. A tow-behind drill follows the curvature of the ground and doesn't have this issue. I added a chain between my hydraulic top-link and the drill. When I set it down to seed, I extend the top link so there is slack in the chain. This makes it act like a tow-behind drill. I did the same with my RM990 mower.
Just food for thought.
Drycreek
Well-Known Member
This is the hitch setup that I use. It doesn’t change the overall length but does raise it up a bit, which is easily controlled by your lift. I wore out (tore up?) the cheaply made TSC type before finding these. There is nothing to break on these. They are bank vault tough, easy to hitch to and just plain work. Do you have to get off your tractor to pin them ? Yes, but you do that when you pin your top link. This is the best solution for me for the last five years. I did replace the hollow pins with some grade eight bolts and lock nuts, but overall I’m well satisfied. I didn’t especially like the others because they extended my mower enough that changing gears going uphill would sometimes lift the front of my tractor off the ground. This was with a two wheel drive with no FEL. Probably wouldn’t do it on the M 6040 that I have now.
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I used my firminator this weekend and opted to install my new hydraulic top link.
I’ve been using a quick hitch for most of my implements with the exception of my brush hog. Before this weekend, I had only used my firminator with the quick hutch one time. I have to say, the hydraulic top link is the ticket. The firminator felt much more stable without the quick hitch and swapping implements was a breeze with the hydraulic top link and adjustable 3 point lift arms.
Just one guys opinion, but I don’t think I’ll go back to the quick hitch.
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I’ve been using a quick hitch for most of my implements with the exception of my brush hog. Before this weekend, I had only used my firminator with the quick hutch one time. I have to say, the hydraulic top link is the ticket. The firminator felt much more stable without the quick hitch and swapping implements was a breeze with the hydraulic top link and adjustable 3 point lift arms.
Just one guys opinion, but I don’t think I’ll go back to the quick hitch.
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Interesting you mention that. Hitched it up for the first time today and also used a hydraulic top link for the first time. I’ll be selling the quick hitch. No need as long as I’m hooking up on flat ground. My new tractor also has rear control for the 3 pt arms at the back. Another game changer. The Firminator wasn’t level on the first attempt and I couldn’t get it. Rigged it to a flat spot with the logging chains and it took 5 minutes to hook up. Same for the box blade and spreader.
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DC- I planted a few different spots this past weekend
1. Plot cleared by dozer over a year ago which I overseeded in cereal rye and clover last fall.
I set the disc for the most aggressive angle possible. It did very well in this plot. The rye and clover from the previous year was not very thick. I planted on the 2nd pass with the disc angle set nearly straight and more down pressure on the cultipacker.
2. Area just cleared by dozer a few weeks ago. Planted in 2 passes again. I probably could have planted in 1 pass, but I was trying to get the plot a little smoother.
3 and 4 were both planted into existing plots that were a little thin. I set the disc on the 2nd setting, nearly straight and planted right into the existing plot.
The clover wasn’t destroyed and the cereal rye was laid over. I could see the grubbed from the disc and cultipacker afterwards
I’m very interested to see how the different methods will do
I’ve got a few more spots I can plant. I’ll take pics and videos next go round.
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1. Plot cleared by dozer over a year ago which I overseeded in cereal rye and clover last fall.
I set the disc for the most aggressive angle possible. It did very well in this plot. The rye and clover from the previous year was not very thick. I planted on the 2nd pass with the disc angle set nearly straight and more down pressure on the cultipacker.
2. Area just cleared by dozer a few weeks ago. Planted in 2 passes again. I probably could have planted in 1 pass, but I was trying to get the plot a little smoother.
3 and 4 were both planted into existing plots that were a little thin. I set the disc on the 2nd setting, nearly straight and planted right into the existing plot.
The clover wasn’t destroyed and the cereal rye was laid over. I could see the grubbed from the disc and cultipacker afterwards
I’m very interested to see how the different methods will do
I’ve got a few more spots I can plant. I’ll take pics and videos next go round.
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Drycreek
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that info. Although I broadcast, I still have to disc minimally. I set my disc almost straight and don’t penetrate any more than I have to in order to cover my seeds. I hate to have to disc any deeper because it feels like I’m starting over each year. I guess my biggest problem is keeping plots covered year round. I haven’t found a way to do that outside of planting “through” the existing crop with a grain drill, and I can’t justify that cost for a couple food plots. That’s one reason I’m interested in how well the Firminator works. My winter wheat plots are usually pretty thick toward the end of spring and I’m wondering if I can plant through them.
I’ve got 2 plots that I don’t think I’d have any chance at seeding through them right now. Clover is knee high and the cereal rye is chest high. Like you, my clover will dry up by July. The only reason I I’m acted spring plots this year was to get a cover crop on some newly cleared ground as well as 2 plots that were very thin.
Im not quite sure yet what I’ll do for my fall plantings. Depending on how things look this fall, I’ll probably terminate what’s in the plots and plant with minimum tillage
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Im not quite sure yet what I’ll do for my fall plantings. Depending on how things look this fall, I’ll probably terminate what’s in the plots and plant with minimum tillage
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Drycreek
Well-Known Member
I made the decision today to pland some Green Cover Warm Season Soil Builder in my big plot here at home. It has more stuff in it than I can list, but overall should attract and feed deer, and maybe it won’t be too attractive to the hogs. The main thing is to have something growing this summer besides grass and weeds. I will probably start a thread on it once it happens.
I've planted that mix. It grew well. We just planted cool season soil builder in most of our plots. This was the earliest we ever seeded, as the PA spring was fairly dry. Usually it's too wet for the tractor.
Grizz, when did you plant the cool season soil builder? I’m waiting on my soil test results but expect to hear I’m very low on organic matter. I’m curious if it’ll grow if I get it down in June or July. Wondering if it’s worth doing that then going back late August or early September to disc it in and plant some fall plots. I’d hate to spend good money on seed in June just to find out the soil sucks too bad. Hoping to be able to get the tractor back there in another month.
I tried that as well. Also tried summer release in an established plot
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Drycreek
Well-Known Member
And how did that work out ?
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