BenAllgood
Well-Known Member
I like to keep an eye on the content Dr. Craig Harper puts out. Another member told me about this latest one from him.
Don't be too sure it was unintentional. He gave a list of things they were able to grow bigger deer without.He unintentionally makes a great case for abandoning mineral licks
Also worth it for people that have been in the game a while. He shares recent data for management practices and nutritional values.This is worth a watch for anyone new to deer management.
By no means is he saying use the approach of "instead of food plots, do this". The examples he used still plant food plots. He's a proponent of food plots. He wrote a book on it, and does tons of research on them. He is suggesting things to do in open ground areas or creating these areas. He's suggesting ways of managing your land to better provide food and cover over the entire landscape. Sometimes we concentrate on way less than 10% of our properties, and spend most of our time and resources there while leaving the rest of our property at sub-optimal levels. He's suggesting identifying and managing these "low hanging fruit" options to providing optimum food/cover.The approach here takes things one step further, and does not even plant a crop.
Ben,By no means is he saying use the approach of "instead of food plots, do this". The examples he used still plant food plots. He's a proponent of food plots. He wrote a book on it, and does tons of research on them. He is suggesting things to do in open ground areas or creating these areas. He's suggesting ways of managing your land to better provide food and cover over the entire landscape. Sometimes we concentrate on way less than 10% of our properties, and spend most of our time and resources there while leaving the rest of our property at sub-optimal levels. He's suggesting identifying and managing these "low hanging fruit" options to providing optimum food/cover.
No personal experience in the North, but to my way of thinking, this technique is part of habitat management when working at scale to do QDM. I would expect them to be more effective in the south where summer can be a stress period. I think that, in the north, it would depend on your general habitat. In a big woods environment, summer can be stressful even in the north. I would expect these to have some cool season forbs, especially if you are doing growing season burns as part of it. I could also see them playing a browse role in big woods north environments where canopy shades out a lot of woody browse. While it may not be high quality food at that point, it is food.So is a anyone wondering or having supporting experience with such browse fields being viable in fall, late fall and/or winter in areas such as the northeast snow belt?
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I would increase the disturbance return intervals to favor more woody browse. Shrubs and young trees that extend above snow levels would be great. Dr. Harper talks about this when he mentions delaying return intervals to get the desired structure.So is a anyone wondering or having supporting experience with such browse fields being viable in fall, late fall and/or winter in areas such as the northeast snow belt?
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We do this with clear-cuts. Same principal except fire is the only real disturbance tool because of the stumps. With HW clear-cuts, we typically let the stumps sucker the next spring and after they have pushed all that new growth, we hit them with herbicides. Once they dry out we hit them with fire. We then cycle fire in 3-5 year intervals depending on conditions. I'm down in 7A, so we are looking more for bedding cover than food, but if burns are timed for growing season, they produce lots of forbs.I would increase the disturbance return intervals to favor more woody browse. Shrubs and young trees that extend above snow levels would be great. Dr. Harper talks about this when he mentions delaying return intervals to get the desired structure.
So is a anyone wondering or having supporting experience with such browse fields being viable in fall, late fall and/or winter in areas such as the northeast snow belt?
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I’m not in the northeast, but I’m in about the coldest part of the country. I manage acres of browse on my place and the deer hammer on it all year except for the fall. Once frost hits, the deer are on my plots every few hours until they are gone. Once winter hits, it’s back to browse, and I’m laying down new trees for them to eat right away, and setting the stage for browse in that spot for the next 2-3 years.
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That's the beauty of old field management. You manage for the succession stage you want. If you want forbs, you manage for that. If you want shrubs and small trees for woody browse, you manage for that. Having a mix that you can stagger return intervals gives you the interspersion that whitetails love.We get snow in feet most of the time… and I see them browse hard but dogwood, young trees, maybe some briars … I just don’t think a field of this would work here but could imagine it elsewhere. I see 6-7 months here jn western NY. By no means do I want to poopoo this either
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When managing for stages beyond an old field, it removes disking as a viable tool. Fire is the only real option. It becomes similar to managing and clear-cut to keep it in early succession.That's the beauty of old field management. You manage for the succession stage you want. If you want forbs, you manage for that. If you want shrubs and small trees for woody browse, you manage for that. Having a mix that you can stagger return intervals gives you the interspersion that whitetails love.
Also, chainsaw and herbicide are options. I've gone through areas with both of those options, and it's not as bad as it sounds, even in briar choked thickets of the deep south.When managing for stages beyond an old field, it removes disking as a viable tool. Fire is the only real option. It becomes similar to managing and clear-cut to keep it in early succession.
Yes, there are times when we aren't able to burn as frequently as we would like and some trees get old enough to withstand prescribed fire. We do break out the chainsaws from time to time but that and backpack sprayers are pretty labor intensive. In clear-cuts, we have stumps which makes ATV sprayers impractical.Also, chainsaw and herbicide are options. I've gone through areas with both of those options, and it's not as bad as it sounds, even in briar choked thickets of the deep south.