Direct Seeding

[T-Max]

When direct seeding acorns, do you still have to stratify them? There are several trees around town I would like to plant acorns off of, but I am not setup for any kind of potting. Can I just grab them and push them in the ground and expect any kind of success? Obviously I won't achieve a high rate of success, but that is about all I will have time for. Thanks!

 

[j-bird]

Members of the white oak family do not need stratification and should be planted right away. Members of the red oak family do require stratification, but they can get that buy being out in the elements as well. If you don't know what sort of acorns your planting simply plant them all as soon as you can and hope for the best. More than likely a large percentage of them won't survive to become a seedling, but it a low investment sort of thing. I plan on direct seeding some this fall as well. I have had decent luck with potted ones, but I have no clue on direct seeded one. The main thing is nearly every critter out there will eat an acorn so getting them past the critters is the hardest part in my opinion. I simply poke a small shallow hole with a broom handle and then cover with my foot. I don;t even mark their location.....that is why I have no idea of my success rate.

 

[shedder]

It is all I do now. I have planted 1500 with good luck but deer pops are low here.
My biggest issue seems to be voles this year.
If you plant 4 inches deep it reduces predation. Plant the seed on its side it you can but it is not required.

 

[Goldentriangle]

Our ground was timbered last year. I did exactly what you are saying with white oak acorns but I direct seeded them right in the middle of brush piles and tree tops. I am shocked by how many of them have turned into seedlings. I know that they have a very long road ahead of them and most will not make it but if you can protect them in any way, they will have a better chance.


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[T-Max]

We are covered up in Black Oaks. Knowing I don't have to stratify, my plan will be to shove some white oak acorns in the ground. Probably in groups of 3. Put a tree tube over the group and select the best looking one come next year and cut off the rest (assuming anything grows ). I think I read somewhere that you can have some success with that. Has anyone here ever tried that?

 

[j-bird]

We are covered up in Black Oaks. Knowing I don't have to stratify, my plan will be to shove some white oak acorns in the ground. Probably in groups of 3. Put a tree tube over the group and select the best looking one come next year and cut off the rest (assuming anything grows ). I think I read somewhere that you can have some success with that. Has anyone here ever tried that?

Unless your limited on tubes why waste 2 perfectly good white oak seedlings? Nothing breaks my heart more than seeing a white oak cut.... I would float test them all and plant the sinkers. I guess I figure if you only plant one you can spread them out more and if the planting is raided your out 1 acorn and not 3. I understand your theory of planting 3 an taking the best one, but I would rather have 300 oak seedlings than 300 seedlings turn into 100 - I guess it's all in how you look at it.

 

[j-bird]

It is all I do now. I have planted 1500 with good luck but deer pops are low here.
My biggest issue seems to be voles this year.
If you plant 4 inches deep it reduces predation. Plant the seed on its side it you can but it is not required.

You really plant them that deep? I figured they would struggle to push thru that much soil.....I figure if I can get some dirt over them that is good. Especially on white oaks.....they will germinate yet this fall if conditions are right, by just laying on the ground.

 

[shedder]

You really plant them that deep? I figured they would struggle to push thru that much soil.....I figure if I can get some dirt over them that is good. Especially on white oaks.....they will germinate yet this fall if conditions are right, by just laying on the ground.

Not always. Often it is just an accident of the process. Speed is important when you plant 100's.

I have seen papers that support planting deep.

This guy has some examples, too.

http://www.fs.fed.us/ne/newtown_square/publications/research_papers/pdfs/scanned/OCR/ne_rp693.pdf

I can't remember if this is one but google would find more.

 

[j-bird]

Not always. Often it is just an accident of the process. Speed is important when you plant 100's.

I have seen papers that support planting deep.

This guy has some examples, too.

http://www.fs.fed.us/ne/newtown_square/publications/research_papers/pdfs/scanned/OCR/ne_rp693.pdf

I can't remember if this is one but google would find more.

I have a wooden broom handle that I just jab into the soil - drop the acorn- cover-stomp-walk away. I agree in when your planting 100's your working in terms of volume and speed and not accuracy.

 

[shedder]

I have a wooden broom handle that I just jab into the soil - drop the acorn- cover-stomp-walk away.

As do I, only it is my faithful walking stick.

 

[mattpatt]

I also use something to poke a hole in the ground, drop acorn and stomp. However, I also try to carry some of those small flags with me and I try to mark each one as I plant. This way I know where I planted something and can come back and check on it later.

 

[Diamond hunter]

Last year I used large 4" pvc cut into 1' sections and had 100% success. You work up the soil slightly,place seed horizontal in the hole,tamp in place one of the protectors and then stake it in place,helping you to find it later.finish with a little peat moss in the hole and press it in place.I works perfect with chestnuts.I used 2 chestnuts last year and had such success that this year I'm only using one,so that I don't have to dig up one and replant.

 

[Sampson]

Diamond,
Thanks for sharing, if you can post some pictures of your success. I think I understand your process but I want to be sure as I plan on using it this fall.

 

[Diamond hunter]

I'm not able to post pictures cause I'm a little dense,Get large diameter pvc and cut into 12" sections.Ruff up the ground where you want a chestnut tree with a shovel so there is some loose dirt for the pvc to stick into.Stick the PVC down in the dirt and tamp with a hammer a little deeper.Take a good hydrated chestnut and press it into the soil just a littleflat down.Cover with a handful of peatmoss and press that down with your hand.Take some windowscreen and cover the opening and secure with wire real tight.I usually stake my pvc but this year I'm not gonna do it.In spring,when the chestnut is up out of the pvc,remove the pvc and put on a treetube and stake with a piece of conduit.Protect from weeds as much as you have the energy to do it.REPEAT

 

[Diamond hunter]

The whole goal is that your chestnut isn't eaten by a bug or squirrel.Later your goal is it isn't eaten by a deer.If you do that,then protect it so that it isn't eaten up by mother nature.Everything works against the chestnut,I think that's why god made them grow like crazy.

 

[Sampson]

Diamond, thanks for explaining it for me. I will certainly be giving it a try this spring. Don't worry about the photos I can't post them either. I guess Its time for me to learn how.

 

[Goldentriangle]

Sounds like a solid method diamond! Just curious how many trees were you working with when you had 100% success. No matter how many, that is incredible for direct seeding. I am planning on direct seeding some this fall. Originally I was going to start them in grow tubes buried a couple inches in the ground but I really like your method so I will give it a whirl. Sounds like a decent experiment for a handful of Wayne's Chinese Chesnuts.
Thanks
Scott


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[catscratch]

I've used pvc and window screen for a few yrs. Once it's up high enough slip a tree tube over the pvc and stake it (remove the window screen first). The only thing to really worry about is if you remove the pvc. It tends to pull a plug of dirt with it that may or may not include your nut...

 

[rustybucket]

Direct seeded LOTS of trees last year. Some were seeded just by walking through the woods, finding a spot and pushing a nut in the ground. Others were planned out, cleared around and tubed. I planted White Oaks, Bur Oaks, Swamp Chestnut Oaks, Sawtooth Oaks and Three Chestnut varities.

I will say that on the tubed seeds I have nearly 100% success rate with two exceptions... In one area in particular, I must have an educated squirrel, he has figured out how to go under the tube enough to move it out of the way and steal the nut (replanted that spot 4 times now). And the other bust was a creek bottom that flooded and pretty much wiped out all the swamp chestnut oaks I had planted there. Many had sprouted before the flood but I don't think they were established enough to be underwater for a couple of weeks.

For the seeds that I just dropped in the ground while walking through the woods I have not been able to find a single surviving tree. I'm not sure if squirrels got them or if something browsed them.... Or, I may just not be seeing them.... The same exact seed stock in tubes are a foot tall.

One thing I did as a backup plan... I had lots of nuts leftover, so in my garden I planted a few rows of trees. They did pretty well and I will use them to re-plant any un-successful field plantings this winter.

Others have already said this, but white oaks go straight from collection into the ground, everything else got cold stratified in the fridge for me.

 

[Mitch]

Great info fellas. I appreciate everyone sharing what works best for them. Direct seeding is something I think i'm going to try this season along with using 1 gallon rootmakers. Stratifying burs and watching them grow was fun and and much to the dismay of my wife, I hope to grow more burs and chestnuts this winter