Building a couple blinds and having alot of questions

[bigbluetruck]

After having to pick up my BRAND NEW Ameristep blind after 50mph winds ripped EVERY hold down loop off of it, I'm pretty well sick of ground blinds! Had to pick my other one up last year on opening morning after it had blown around. So I'm wanting to build a couple of blinds in the next couple of years.

I want to build a slightly elevated one on a wagon gear. Old barge wagons are cheap and easy to find here in farm country so that's what I'm thinking, but without looking at one real close, I'm trying to figure out how to attach everything to the bolsters. Anyone got any pictures of some they've built?

I also want to build some permanent elevated blinds, starting from scratch and having to buy all the wood and stuff, how much do you guys figure on spending on a blind big enough to fit 2 adults in?

Finally, an idea Ive had for awhile is using the base from a windmill for a permanent blind. They are pretty easy to find around here in almost every pasture and they aren't used anymore. Has someone done or seen this done?

 

[swat1018]

I have 2 windmill bases that my next two blinds are going on, I think it's a good idea, but still untested. Make your blind 5x6 or larger if you want to hunt two, especially if you archery hunt. I had about $600 per blind in mine, I used purchased blind windows and wouldn't use the same brand again, your windows will be a major expense. I also used OSB, it was $7.25 when I built my last ones, it's at least twice that now. Good luck.l

 

[bigbluetruck]

What windows did you use?

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[swat1018]

Shadow hunter window kits. I may try Deerview next time.

 

[bigbluetruck]

I've been looking at the deerview as well

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[Mennoniteman]

You may want to look at the thread Deer Hunting Shed by rusty1034. I posted a few tips about attaching a stand to a wagon.

 

[bigbluetruck]

Ill have to check that out tommorow on the computer

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[Mennoniteman]

Here's one that I'm working on right now, a 4X4 OSB portable box blind, we move these around with the loader bucket, two guys can also slide onto a pickup bed. It could be made bigger, but soon it's not cheap and portable anymore. Its great for one, tight for two. But I've been in 4x4s many times with junior hunters who got a deer, gun of couse. The windows are really neat, an 8X10 sliding glass window pane inside a larger 16"X24" fold down window. If you close everything tight you can heat it and you're scent free. If you open the three big windows and door, you are wide open. I've shot many deer out of stands like this one, I actually prefer 4x4 to hunt alone, you don't need to move around as much to see out. I built this whole thing out of packing box scraps except for four pcs 7/16 OSB, $60. Used garage door hinges, extra screws and scrap roofing. 1/2"x1 3/4" staples put the OSB together fast. Black leftover pitch will go on the inside, a mixture of black and aluminum roof coating on the outside gives a nice clay color. 2X4 treated wood 16" oc. for the base, had a scrap pc of 3\4" for the floor.

 

[Mennoniteman]

More pics of OSB shack.

 

[SwampCat]

I build 6x8 with treated plywood, metal roofs, on 4x6 treated skids for about $500. No windows - just cut openings.

 

[rusty1034]

I mounted a 6x5 Amish shed on an old set of running gear recently. I'll try to remember to get pix next week when I return to the farm.
Rusty


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[Doe Shooter]

As general info I've made a wood protector I have used for about 30 years . I found it in a flyer from a government. Some of the ingredients they suggested are no longer available ,like pentachloraphenol and arsenate. But the basic recipe still works well and discourages chewing vermin. Outside ,away from anything valuable, get a hot plate,and a pot . Pour in a quart of mineral spirits and heat. Toss in a couple of small parafin votive candle(wally world) 4 ounces boiled linseed oil and 4 ounces of used motor oil. It's best to apply on a hot day. It should apply like water and soak in immediately. Give end grain an extra coat. It will bead water for a long time.

 

[Doe Shooter]

As windows go I believe in cheap and functional. A vinyl siding "J" channel top and bottom and a couple pieces plexi glass .Great sliders. Crack a little or a lot. little movement

 

[rusty1034]

Here's a couple pix of the Amish built shed I mounted on wagon running gear. Those lovely side supports are to prevent the wind from blowing it over. I don't know if it would ever happen, but just in case .......

I ended up bolting some planks to the running gear, and then bolting the skids from the shed to the planks. So far so good.

As I write this I am sitting in the wagon blind with 9 does feeding on the clover field in front of me.

I'm hoping that a buck will join them soon.

Good luck, and be safe !

Rusty




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[bigbluetruck]

Here's a couple pix of the Amish built shed I mounted on wagon running gear. Those lovely side supports are to prevent the wind from blowing it over. I don't know if it would ever happen, but just in case .......

I ended up bolting some planks to the running gear, and then bolting the skids from the shed to the planks. So far so good.

As I write this I am sitting in the wagon blind with 9 does feeding on the clover field in front of me.

I'm hoping that a buck will join them soon.

Good luck, and be safe !

Rusty




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Looks nice


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[Mennoniteman]

That's a pretty neat setup. Hook a geared down battery motor to one of the wheels and you can creep towards the deer if they're too far away. JK

 

[Frosted brassica]

I build 6x8 with treated plywood, metal roofs, on 4x6 treated skids for about $500. No windows - just cut openings.

How do you brace your skids so they pull well and don't come apart when dragging it around?

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[Mennoniteman]

How do you brace your skids so they pull well and don't come apart when dragging it around?

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Taper the bottom half of the end of each 4x6 upright skid on a 45 angle. Bolt a flat 3" inch plate to the top half of the same end of the skid with a hole in it to fasten the dragging chain to. Lay more 4x6's flat crosswise across the two skids at 24" intervals for floor joists and bolt up from the bottom of skids with one 1/2" carriage bolt at each intersection with the nut recessed into the top of the flat 4x6 floor joist. Screw plywood flooring right on the 4x6 floor joists' and build the rest of the stand on top of the floor with the siding going down over the floor joists on the outside. This stand will not come apart from dragging around. Adding skids to the bottom of an existing stand is more difficult. I would flip the stand on its side, cut short 4x6's to fit in between the existing floor joists flat, right above where you want the skids, screwing them in from their ends and down through the floor, then lagging each skid flat to the bottom of these heavy blocks with 1/2" lag bolts, recessing the lagbolt head and washer flush with the bottom of the skid. You can do lots of different variations of these ideas that will also work, but the main idea is that you need some heavy wood, with some substantial bolts well fastened to the stand, and some type of bolted bracket to fasten the chain to the skid (a welded triangle angle iron hitch attached to each skid is even better) and don't skimp on all the other various fasteners, if you want to make a portable shooting house that can take the abuse of hitting rocks and things and still last for many years.

 

[Frosted brassica]

Taper the bottom half of the end of each 4x6 upright skid on a 45 angle. Bolt a flat 3" inch plate to the top half of the same end of the skid with a hole in it to fasten the dragging chain to. Lay more 4x6's flat crosswise across the two skids at 24" intervals for floor joists and bolt up from the bottom of skids with one 1/2" carriage bolt at each intersection with the nut recessed into the top of the flat 4x6 floor joist. Screw plywood flooring right on the 4x6 floor joists' and build the rest of the stand on top of the floor with the siding going down over the floor joists on the outside. This stand will not come apart from dragging around. Adding skids to the bottom of an existing stand is more difficult. I would flip the stand on its side, cut short 4x6's to fit in between the existing floor joists flat, right above where you want the skids, screwing them in from their ends and down through the floor, then lagging each skid flat to the bottom of these heavy blocks with 1/2" lag bolts, recessing the lagbolt head and washer flush with the bottom of the skid. You can do lots of different variations of these ideas that will also work, but the main idea is that you need some heavy wood, with some substantial bolts well fastened to the stand, and some type of bolted bracket to fasten the chain to the skid (a welded triangle angle iron hitch attached to each skid is even better) and don't skimp on all the other various fasteners, if you want to make a portable shooting house that can take the abuse of hitting rocks and things and still last for many years.

Thanks. I have moved a playhouse, someone else built, and it had 2x floor joists rather than 4x. It got a little tweaked from dragging so it makes sense to go up to 4x.

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[KyDeerSteward]

Man I have wanted to do something like this for years and I could use it so bad right now! I even bought enough cedar for a floor to make just a platform 4'-6' high for a ground blind either trailer mounted or portable "tip up". You guys have me wanting to do this style bad!