Anyone looking for Chestnuts, Persimmons, Hazelnuts, and more?

Folk Rock Farm

New Member
Hey all, just putting it out there that my nursery has plenty of seedling Chinese Chestnuts, Persimmons, Hazelnuts as well as plenty of other fruits, nuts and perennials like Sunchokes. We have 10-pack deals on those for anyone looking to plant out a lot of trees fairly cheap! Persimmons are seedlings of Early Golden and a mix from John Hershey's Pennsylvania persimmons. Next year we will have seedlings of Prok x Szukis which have a much higher percentage of female trees, about 75% female to 25% male. Sunchokes are also great for winter browse. Deer at our food forest dig at the sunchoke beds and devour the tubers (and presumably fart their brains out after!). Anyway, just figured I'd throw it out there if anyone is interested www.folkrockfarm.com Thanks and hope everybody has a kickass season!
 
You must be the culprit that is balancing out my native persimmon ratio. I typically get 75% male and 25% female!
Hahah damn, yeah they can be tough with random seedlings sometimes! A lot of my food forest was planted with random wild seedlings before I stumbled on that cross. I'm hoping to graft many branches on my males over to the best producing females I have. I'll be happy, the deer will be happy, and my freezer will be happy!
 
It is best to wait unit persimmons are 1" in diameter. I've had success up to 4 inches. You cut down the tree completely and bark graft them. It has a very high success rate. You need to remove any water sprouts the first year after grafting. It is not uncommon to get your first persimmons in the 3rd leaf after grafting. I think both I and @Native Hunter have threads on persimmon grafting on this forum. Do a forum search and you will find a lot of good detailed information.
 
It is best to wait unit persimmons are 1" in diameter. I've had success up to 4 inches. You cut down the tree completely and bark graft them. It has a very high success rate. You need to remove any water sprouts the first year after grafting. It is not uncommon to get your first persimmons in the 3rd leaf after grafting. I think both I and @Native Hunter have threads on persimmon grafting on this forum. Do a forum search and you will find a lot of good detailed information.
I'm hoping to just graft onto branches, but still keep some of the male tree as is. I also want good pollination so I can keep getting seeds. I've ha success doing that with apple and pear, and I would imagine persimmon would be compatible with that as well. I'm sure some of them will get fully grafted over after cutting, but I do want some good males on the property. I'll give both a try in spring and see what has better success
 
Pollination is not an issue with persimmons if you live in the native range. They are insect pollinated, not wind pollinated like chestnuts. The pollen can come from over a mile away with insects. Having said that, for folks out of the native range that have no persimmons growing wild in the native area, one approach is to plant your own seeds or seedlings. You won't know the sex until they begin to flower.

Then, when the trees hit about 1" in diameter, you cut them down and bark graft them with female scions. I like grafting about 4' off the ground to reduce curious deer damage to the graft. Remove all water sprouts that first year to push the graft. In the second year, the tree is likely to produce water sprouts below the graft. These will be the same sex as the original tree. Simply let these branches grow, so if the tree you grafted was male, you will have a producing tree above the graft and male pollinating branched below the graft.

If you want to be sure of pollination you can do this in spite of the fact that you have male trees in the area. Trees with both male and female branches are rare, but occur naturally. These are called "Perfect" trees.

It is possible to graft individual branches, but it is much more work for much less benefit. Bark grafting is the way to go. Will a tree push a graft on an individual branch? Maybe but the odds are not great. The root system of an established tree is large. It will likely favor native growth over an injured branch. That is why it is important to remove water sprouts each week after bark grafting for the first season. The trees response to injury is to push its own new growth. Because the root system is so large compared to the top (now that you have cut it off), it has lots of energy to push. If the water sprouts it is pushing keep getting removed, the energy will then be directed at the grafts.

The beauty of bark grafting is that you get another chance. Sometime, for whatever reason, a bark graft fails. Perhaps an animal dislodges it or something. You simply pick a water sprout and let it grow removing the rest. This becomes the new central leader of the tree and keeps it alive that year. The next year, you can cut it down again just below that water sprout and bark graft again.

One more advantage a bark graft has is that you can use multiple scions on one tree. I generally use two scions on a 1" diameter tree and 3 scions on a 2" diameter tree. Once one or more of the scions have clearly succeeded, I pick the best and remove the rest along with water sprouts. This significantly increases you chances of having success. It doesn't take significantly more time to bark graft 2 or 3 scions than it does one.

I have W&T and V grafted persimmons when they are seedlings. One year I got some hybrid scions (Nikita's Gift). They are a Kaki Virginia cross of some kind. They are astringent like american persimmons, but there were conflicting reports as to whether they fall from the tree or not. So, I decided to try them. I grew some American persimmons from seed in rootmaker containers. After the first growing season, I grafted them still in the post similar to grafting apple seedlings. They have a fairly thick cambium layer so they are fairly easy to graft this way. I was starting trees under lights indoors as a cabin fever project at the time and experimenting. I found this to work, but be much less effective than planting the seedling in the field, waiting for them to hit 1" in diameter and bark grafting them.
 
What did you find to be the best way to graft them? I haven't tried persimmon yet, but have done some apple and pear with whip-and-tongue

Here you go. This works fine for apple, pear and persimmon. Click the link below to go to the thread.

 
Pollination is not an issue with persimmons if you live in the native range. They are insect pollinated, not wind pollinated like chestnuts. The pollen can come from over a mile away with insects. Having said that, for folks out of the native range that have no persimmons growing wild in the native area, one approach is to plant your own seeds or seedlings. You won't know the sex until they begin to flower.

Then, when the trees hit about 1" in diameter, you cut them down and bark graft them with female scions. I like grafting about 4' off the ground to reduce curious deer damage to the graft. Remove all water sprouts that first year to push the graft. In the second year, the tree is likely to produce water sprouts below the graft. These will be the same sex as the original tree. Simply let these branches grow, so if the tree you grafted was male, you will have a producing tree above the graft and male pollinating branched below the graft.

If you want to be sure of pollination you can do this in spite of the fact that you have male trees in the area. Trees with both male and female branches are rare, but occur naturally. These are called "Perfect" trees.

It is possible to graft individual branches, but it is much more work for much less benefit. Bark grafting is the way to go. Will a tree push a graft on an individual branch? Maybe but the odds are not great. The root system of an established tree is large. It will likely favor native growth over an injured branch. That is why it is important to remove water sprouts each week after bark grafting for the first season. The trees response to injury is to push its own new growth. Because the root system is so large compared to the top (now that you have cut it off), it has lots of energy to push. If the water sprouts it is pushing keep getting removed, the energy will then be directed at the grafts.

The beauty of bark grafting is that you get another chance. Sometime, for whatever reason, a bark graft fails. Perhaps an animal dislodges it or something. You simply pick a water sprout and let it grow removing the rest. This becomes the new central leader of the tree and keeps it alive that year. The next year, you can cut it down again just below that water sprout and bark graft again.

One more advantage a bark graft has is that you can use multiple scions on one tree. I generally use two scions on a 1" diameter tree and 3 scions on a 2" diameter tree. Once one or more of the scions have clearly succeeded, I pick the best and remove the rest along with water sprouts. This significantly increases you chances of having success. It doesn't take significantly more time to bark graft 2 or 3 scions than it does one.

I have W&T and V grafted persimmons when they are seedlings. One year I got some hybrid scions (Nikita's Gift). They are a Kaki Virginia cross of some kind. They are astringent like american persimmons, but there were conflicting reports as to whether they fall from the tree or not. So, I decided to try them. I grew some American persimmons from seed in rootmaker containers. After the first growing season, I grafted them still in the post similar to grafting apple seedlings. They have a fairly thick cambium layer so they are fairly easy to graft this way. I was starting trees under lights indoors as a cabin fever project at the time and experimenting. I found this to work, but be much less effective than planting the seedling in the field, waiting for them to hit 1" in diameter and bark grafting them.
Unfortunately we don't have wild persimmons growing around us. Rhode Island is in their range, but they are very rare in the wild. I have dozens of seedling trees already started, the oldest were planted 5-6 years ago and are about 10-12 ft. tall so I anticipate they will flower soon! I'm hoping there are some stand-out females that I can take scion from. Good point about the root system favoring the existing tree over the grafted branch! I'll probably start some extra seedlings to use as root stock as well as cutting down a lot of the males to graft onto. What was your opinion of Nikita's Gift? I was considering adding one because it has some great hype, but haven't pulled the trigger on it, so to speak.
 
Here you go. This works fine for apple, pear and persimmon. Click the link below to go to the thread.

Awesome info, thanks!
 
Unfortunately we don't have wild persimmons growing around us. Rhode Island is in their range, but they are very rare in the wild. I have dozens of seedling trees already started, the oldest were planted 5-6 years ago and are about 10-12 ft. tall so I anticipate they will flower soon! I'm hoping there are some stand-out females that I can take scion from. Good point about the root system favoring the existing tree over the grafted branch! I'll probably start some extra seedlings to use as root stock as well as cutting down a lot of the males to graft onto. What was your opinion of Nikita's Gift? I was considering adding one because it has some great hype, but haven't pulled the trigger on it, so to speak.
Back when I was doing a lot of work with trees for deer habitat, my strategy was to use persimmons to feed deer. One reason I chose them as one of my primary feeding trees is because they are zero maintenance. Feeding deer, as opposed to just attracting them to a particular location at a particular time of year, requires volume. Since persimmons were native to my area and I had many growing on our pine farm, they were a great choice. I traded scions with lots of other folks around the country back then. My objective was to put persimmons on the ground across many months. Folks would let me know when their persimmons were dropping from particular trees. Most of the traded scions were from later dropping trees, Nov-Feb. I could easily buy scions from commercial varieties that drop in the early season, Sep-Oct. One great source for persimmon seeds and scions was Cliff England from England's orchard. He knows persimmons very well.

American persimmons, unlike Lotus or Kaki, are all astringent protecting them from predation from climbing animals until they are ripe. They also fall from the tree when ripe giving deer a fair chance of getting them before they are eaten by other animals. So, Nikita's Gift was an experiment for me.

Persimmons, unlike apples, don't have many protected variety names. So when two folks refer to a persimmon by a name, they may or may not be referring to the same tree. This may be what accounts for the differing reports I got about Nikita's Gift. Everyone reported that they are astringent, but some reported they fall from the tree when ripe and others reported that they didn't.

I got a bunch of seeds from Cliff England one year. He had just finished planting for the year and sent me many more seeds than I ordered. I started those seeds in mesh flats in promix. This was in late spring so I did it outdoors. As soon as a seed germinated and began to lift from the promix, I immediately extracted it from the flat and put it in a Rootmaker 18, or my DIY version which I made from shelving material. (This is all documented on the other Habit forum before they kicked me off. I believe they kept all my old threads, so you will find a lot on those threads). At any rate, I over wintered some of these seedlings and used them for rootstock on which to graft the Nikita's Gift scions. I got those scions from a guy on the Growing Fruit forum.

I found something unusual with Nikita's Gift. For some reason, these trees took on more of a bush form than a tall growing tree form like most of my persimmons. They fruited very early in their lives when these trees/bushes were only a few feet tall. The persimmons were large and more Kaki looking than Virginiana looking. I still don't know if they fall from the tree, because the trees/bushes are all still short enough that deer and other animals can reach them. My guess is that they don't. I picked a few that were ripe and the stem is very thick and not brittle, at least when they first ripen. I'm not sure if that will change as they age on the tree because they never do; they are eaten first.

So for now, they are contributing. I'm not sure if fewer larger persimmons are any better than more smaller persimmons for deer. For the long run, the jury is still out.

Chestnuts have worked out well for me as well. Another experimental tree that worked out very well for me is Tigertooth Jujube.
 
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