3 Pt Tractor Attachment With JD Quick Hitch

[dogghr]

After some discussion on Mennonitemans habitat thread I thot I share my experience w this attachment
As most know , connection of an implement to a tractor can be a pain especially if working alone. Tractor 3 pt hitch may require a hammer and even pry bar at times to get an item such as a bushhog connected. At times it’s easy, other times a Royal battle requiring extra Church for the attitude and words used.

The JD Imatch quick hitch simplifies this work. Now first your implement must be quick hitch compatible. Not all things are. My Woods bushhog, rototiller, and blade are all compatible. Even some JD implements are not. So check.

Also the pins on the implements are undersized and you will need to modify or buy the JD sleeves for 30$ that slide over the pins. They have a pin to be hammered into the appropriate holes for retention on the implement.

The quick hitch is mounted to your tractor 3 pt arms in a traditional manner. Once installed, you then simply back up to implement allowing the hooks to align with pins ,then raise 3 pt to engage. Flip retention arms down, connect shaft. And off you go. Of course spray lube on shaft teeth to make connection easier.
To change implement say from your mower to a blade, release bars , then just drop 3 pt, and drive away. Back up to next implement and attach.
Not always perfectly smooth but much easier and timesaver especially if you often work alone.
JD also makes a form that even connects the drive shaft when you hook to implement. I think that’s not needed.
Have fun

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[dogghr]

Only slight disadvantage is implement sits somewhat further back on tractor. And of as mentioned some implements are not compatible. I’ve had mine about 12 years. I like it.


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[buckdeer1]

The JD brand should be the same spread as any other brand.I too have found implements that I had to modify.There are different size sleeves without spending 30.00.I just buy mine at the farm store.The only thing I can't hook up is my post hole auger

 

[dogghr]

I agree Buckdeer of fab or buying own sleeves which I have done. But I will say the JD sleeves work perfect and hookup is simplified and quicker. For implements costing $500-3000, $30 is pretty insignificant.
BTW there are several aftermarket quick hitches available which are prob cheaper than JD. But as you can see in the pic, that 12yo hitch still looks new. I’ve had great luck w JD and Woods brands of implements. Most of which are 10-12 yo.


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[dogghr]

Another thing to keep in mind especially w older implements , since the quick hitch sits the attachment back 6” or so, you may have to modify the length of the PTO shaft.
And of course keep everything well lubed. My grandfather who was a RR Engineer beginning in the steam locomotive days , taught me if it wasn’t dripping w oil or lube then you hadn’t done enough!


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[bearcat]

I bought a quick attach from a local dealer and it was not very user friendly. I dont remember the manufacturer. The pins from the implement would not easily slide down into the quick attach due to a small lip. I took it back and went to the JD dealer and bought the I-match quick attach based on recommendation from a friend. Although more expensive, its works like a dream. It is much more user-friendly, I don’t care if it’s green hooked up to my orange tractor!


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[Letmgrow]

If you were to go to a forum named https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/implements-attachments.12/ you will find numerous discussions about the JD Quick Hitch.
I have a Harbor Freight version of the QH which sits in a corner of my barn collecting dust. I have three tractors. A 1987 Ford 2110 38 HP diesel MFWD, a 2007 JD 5225 56 HP MFWD cab tractor and a 2012 5065E 65 HP MFWD open station tractor. Both JD tractors are diesel and I bought both of them new. The Ford has a Category 1 3 PH. The 5225 has a ball which rotates in the 3 PH arms which rotates so it is compatible with either Cat. 1 or 2 hitch pin sizes. The 5065E is came as a Cat. 2.
My implements include two brush cutters (6' King Kutter and 6' County Line, both from Tractor Supply Co.) a Frontier 1170 RT 6' tiller, a Frontier 1190RD 90" grooming mower, a County Line 6' set of discs, a Brillion SSP 5 seeder and a 3 PH fertilizer/seed spreader a 6' 3 PH York brand landscape rake and a County line 6' 3 PH back blade. All are Cat.1 except the KK brush cutter and the Frontier tiller which are Cat.2. I changed the hitch pins on the KK brush cutter to Cat.1 pins so I can use it on any of my tractors. The spacing on the KK is wider due to the Cat. 2 set up but it will work as a Cat.1 just fine.
My 5065E presented a problem when I first got it as the Cat.2 3 PH arms are angled for the wider spacing required for the Cat.2 hitch. I installed the "Pat's Hitch" (http://www.pats3pointhitchsystem.com/) on the 5065E because you can change the angle and the hitch comes with spacers to convert the Cat.2 to a Cat.1 if needed which I did. This set up works very much like a Quick hitch except you have to dismount from the tractor and connect the top link. Not a big deal for someone like me who has run tractors since the late 50's long before we had all these fancy gadgets.
I also discovered early on with the QH the hook on the hitch isn't compatible with every implement I have due to different heights This required moving the hook up or down when changing implements. A PITA I didn't care to deal with. Adapters are available but they aren't the ultimate solution as they can be cumbersome and difficult to hook to. On the brush cutters and my grooming mower the top link attaches to a link on the mowers which will move up and down so the mower can move up when you hit a solid object or the mower can move down going through dips.
My 5225 cab tractor also has 3 PH arms with a button you can slide over and unlock the ends of the arms so they will pull out and flop around. Attach the arm to the hitch pins, set the arms level with the pins and back up slightly and the arms lock back into place. Hook up the top link and the PTO shaft (if required) and drive away.
The other tractors I have found if I back up to a piece of equipment and slide on arm over a hitch pin I can move back or ahead slightly and the other arm will align with the pin. Dismount and slide the arm into the pin then finish the hookup procedure. A little practice and this becomes easy to do with only a few dirty words. LOL
I like as much purchase as I can get on my PTO shafts without having them bottom out. The QH does move the implement back some so the distance needs to be verified before turning the PTO on. Remember when an implement raises or lowers the distance or length of the PTO shaft changes. Check your measurements in the full up and down positions to be sure you aren't going to separate the inner and outer shafts in the PTO driveline. This could destroy something including the operator in a hurry.
Sorry for the long lesson but experience counts and I thought I'd share some of mine with you. Above all be safe.
Lynn.

 

[buckdeer1]

Instead of the hook mine also came with a yoke so I took the hook off and use the yoke.Also the sleeves I buy for less than 10.00 at the farm store look just like the JD sleeves

 

[Bowhunter]

I went with the Speeco E-hitch on my tractor. The best part about this hitch is you don’t need to buy $50 worth of bushings for every implement you have. It has fit all my implements without issue. I’m liking it so far.

 

[buckdeer1]

Thats just like the Kwik hitch or JD you are lucky yours has the plates on each side of opening so you don't have to use the bushings.I only use them when the pin sticks out.I am glad I don't shop where you guys do as I pay around 15 for a pair

 

[buckdeer1]

How does your top link fasten?

 

[Bowhunter]

How does your top link fasten?

The top link doesn’t fasten on the E-hitch. It just has a big hook that the top link of the implement sits in. Works very well.

 

[Bowhunter]

Here is a better picture of it.