Growing Honeylocust From Seed

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I checked on my thornless honeylocust last weekend and it's loaded! I planted this tree 4.5 years ago as a 6' tree. That's a lot of food for deer come September.

Unfortunately, after everything I showed y'all in this thread, I had a ZERO percent germination rate from seed. Using the same method with wild trees, I usually have a 75% rate. I'm curious if these trees are "sterile" or something. The tree I have now was grafted. I plan on grafting a bunch next year instead of propagating from seed. I can graft them onto native honeylocust as rootstock.
 
No need to propagate. Grab the spade and come on up. I'll throw in some cedars and autumn olive if you play your cards right!

At my place it is hard to find pods that aren't eaten. Then the seeds come out the other end and make a tree. I suppose there is some draw / nutrition value there but I think I would fill the hole with a better tree.
 
No need to propagate. Grab the spade and come on up. I'll throw in some cedars and autumn olive if you play your cards right!

At my place it is hard to find pods that aren't eaten. Then the seeds come out the other end and make a tree. I suppose there is some draw / nutrition value there but I think I would fill the hole with a better tree.

I've heard that many people in the Midwest hate honeylocust and see them as pests. I can understand the issues with thorns, and I've also heard they are a low preference food in that region. In the South, especially the Deep South, deer flock to a honeylocust dropping pods, which they typically do in September/October. They are a major native food source here.

These trees that I show in the pictures are two cultivars of THORNLESS honeylocust selected because of their pod production. I got them from David Osborn who is a professor in the UGA Deer Lab & owns a wildlife tree nursery. These two cultivars, "Hershey" and "Calhoun", produce prolific amounts of pods that are 12-24" long, which is about twice as large as pods from native trees.

I planted these two trees about 4.5 years ago, so I would estimate they are 7-9 yrs old. At their current size, they will each drop a few thousand pods between Sept and Dec. I'm not even sure how to calculate how many pounds of food that is. They are free of thorns and don't require fertilizer, pruning, insecticide, limb training, or watering outside of rain. No issues with pests, cedar apple rust, fireblight, or other diseases. I've planted several hundred trees on my property, pears, plums, apples, crabs, persimmons, chestnut, and oak. If you can name another mast species that is as low maintenance and produces even close to the amount of food at 8 yrs old as these trees, please let us know. Their hole is definitely safe.
 
With the trees being grafted, I would bet the seed would not produce offspring that was also thornless. Just like apples are not true to seed from grafted stock.
You could experiment with propagating native seeds and grafting from your thornless trees.
Two years ago, I had 85%+ germination rates without ever scarifying the seeds. I literally washed the seed, placed them in pots outside in early winter, and they germinated the next spring.


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Have you considered eating some of the seeds yourself to aid with scarification? Maybe scratch them up with some sandpaper to break through that coating I have done that with persimmons before.
 
I have about a dozen seeds that were in a turkey's craw that I killed this spring. I keep meaning to put them in pots and see what they will do. Have you ever been able to germinate seed with the stratification method you posted? I had also read about using sandpaper to scratch the seeds and it seems like I also read somewhere about putting them in warm water. Just curious if the water maybe got too warm and sterilized the seed.
 
I have about a dozen seeds that were in a turkey's craw that I killed this spring. I keep meaning to put them in pots and see what they will do. Have you ever been able to germinate seed with the stratification method you posted? I had also read about using sandpaper to scratch the seeds and it seems like I also read somewhere about putting them in warm water. Just curious if the water maybe got too warm and sterilized the seed.
Yes. I usually collect wild pods and propogate new plants from the seeds. I usually have about 75% success rate with this method. I have no idea why the thornless variety seeds didn't work. They swelled up during the boiling/soaking process like the wild seeds, but they just never germinated.
 
Next year I plan on just grafting the thornless varieties onto wild rootstock that I have grown over the past couple of years from seed. You can also get very good native honeylocust seedlings from Mossy Oak Nativ nurseries. If anyone wants any scions from these two trees next spring let me know.
 
My grandfather would rollover in his grave if he saw me plant them on the farm. We kill every one of them we see. The thorns are the issue. I've found they can be difficult to kill though, any tips?
 
Next year I plan on just grafting the thornless varieties onto wild rootstock that I have grown over the past couple of years from seed. You can also get very good native honeylocust seedlings from Mossy Oak Nativ nurseries. If anyone wants any scions from these two trees next spring let me know.
Hey all new on here. I am a big plant nerd, and these varieties are SUPER hard to find. The only online source is for 7gal trees which is really stupidly expensive.

Honeylocusts are generally best propagated by hardwood cuttings. It is VERY easy. Take a cutting of dormant wood about a pencil width (same size as grafting), and dip it in rooting hormone or paint it or soak or whatever you want to do. Put it in somewhere moist but not wet (I use wood chips about 6-12" deep aged a while) with the tip near the soil level and the top out of the rooting medium. Then leave it alone for 6 months to a year. Water if it gets real dry, but the chips generally keep it about right. It will root most of the time. I would not recommend from seeds, they are likely to be thorny since who knows what the pollinator was.

If any of you have scion wood from these varieties I want some and will gladly pay for any you suspect are Millwood or Hershey or the awesome big-podded thornless ones. Please let me know if they are still dormant-ish and maybe I could get some.
 
I'd be afraid to plant them on mine. I hear they don't spread like black locust - but I worry about invasives.
 
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