converting old fields to summer plots....

Just my two cents but here it goes. This is a great opportunity for RR soybeans or a liberty Link soybeans. They will allow multiple sprayings until your beans come to full canopy. You may still have some grass at that point but nothing too bad if you keep weeds in check up to the point of canopy.

Your neighbor, is his drill a no-till drill? If so would he consider drilling this area for you? With all the woody stuff I would make certain of that.

Don't fret the lime or soil samples right now. If it has been 100 years since the ground has been worked then Mother Nature has fixed a lot of issues for you. It is likely not that your soil is so hard that your disk will not work, but instead it more like your soil is full of 1000's of different root systems which can give the illusion of hard packed soil.

A healthy soil is able to use nutrients more efficiently so following the normal soil test recommendations may be a waste of resources and money. If the ph is low, apply some lime and leave well enough alone. You will not want or need N so application of potash and a little dap can be easily figured for what you expect your "crop" to take away.

Plowing or disking will just burn up the stuff you need that is already in your soil, yes the OM. You have OM breaking down and feeding the plants so it will also feed your "crop". A good dose of GLY at planting (3 qt an acre) will give a good burndown but this must happen while plants are actively growing and temps remain in mid 50's over night for at least a week.


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Just my two cents but here it goes. This is a great opportunity for RR soybeans or a liberty Link soybeans. They will allow multiple sprayings until your beans come to full canopy. You may still have some grass at that point but nothing too bad if you keep weeds in check up to the point of canopy.

Your neighbor, is his drill a no-till drill? If so would he consider drilling this area for you? With all the woody stuff I would make certain of that.

Don't fret the lime or soil samples right now. If it has been 100 years since the ground has been worked then Mother Nature has fixed a lot of issues for you. It is likely not that your soil is so hard that your disk will not work, but instead it more like your soil is full of 1000's of different root systems which can give the illusion of hard packed soil.

A healthy soil is able to use nutrients more efficiently so following the normal soil test recommendations may be a waste of resources and money. If the ph is low, apply some lime and leave well enough alone. You will not want or need N so application of potash and a little dap can be easily figured for what you expect your "crop" to take away.

Plowing or disking will just burn up the stuff you need that is already in your soil, yes the OM. You have OM breaking down and feeding the plants so it will also feed your "crop". A good dose of GLY at planting (3 qt an acre) will give a good burndown but this must happen while plants are actively growing and temps remain in mid 50's over night for at least a week.


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Thanks for the advice, the controlled burn really changed some things for me, i will show the pics in the next post. As to the soil, my results are all over the place. Its going to take time to get them right, but for now i am preparing to pull up the pH in spots with some CAL-TURF PRO.
 
I can easily pass through this soil with a disc now. I was blessed to receive a tractor and implements with this farm, but right now its not looking like i will be able to drill anything. I will have to hand broadcast my seeds.

The burn was extremely effective, everything was toast. 20170310_071257.jpg

And the soil is perfect for prepping now. What used to take my 10 passes with a chisel plow and disc, now will take one pass.

20170310_105847.jpg 20170310_105851.jpg
 
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