Compaction is a function of time.
Alleviating compaction is a function of fracturing pans then stabilizing the fractures with more living roots and SOM.
It takes time and soil biology to overcome compaction and you don't get optimum soil biology without living roots in the soil 360 days/yr!
Rethink the value of mixes before writing them off!
Set big box on drill to deliver 10 lba radish for monoculture/soil busting....small box will likely crush radish seed so don't use it. Plant anytime after summer solstice to minimize bolting. Essentially you only get partial compaction alleviation doing so with the effect limited to late summer, fall and early winter....and you don't have other roots in a monoculture to explore channels created by radish roots for soil stability.
Or add about 5-7 lba to small grain legume mix....plant 6-8 weeks before frost for good fall growth and winter stockpile. The small grain roots will explore and stabilize the radish root channels during the spring flush....so now you have a plant which will keep alleviating compaction late winter through spring.
Then you should go one step further and plant a summer mix in spring heavy in sorghum, milo, pearl millet and/or sorghum sudans and with annual legumes etc. Mow that tall when the sorghums are 5' high and the soil has moisture to promote new tillers and deeper roots. Now you are still alleviating compaction late spring through late summer....alas 360d of soil stabilization!
Repeat that rotation of fall and summer mixes until you get the topsoil depth you desire...and the pans are fractured. Diverse roots and near maturity annual forages are the key to unlocking soil compaction!.....may take 2 or 10 years...all depends on condition of soil you are working with when you start and past management of that soil!
