Clearing pine plantation, now what?

Chipdasqrrl

Chipdasqrrl

Active Member
I am planning on clearing nearly 40 acres of Scots pines. Originally planted as a Christmas tree farm many decades ago, it was abandoned and is ready to go. I have a couple questions:

1) Does anyone have any idea how much the pines might be worth?

2) What trees should I plant that would be good in the future for both deer and timber value? The ground is perfectly capable of growing maples or oaks.

My ultimate goal is to transition this area into a profitable hardwood stand. Any helpful information is appreciated


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How much total property at this location? If it is a small part of a much larger property there is nothing wrong with replanting pines. Provides great bedding area early on and then as you begin to think trees you can plant food plot strips.
 
Neahawg said:
How much total property at this location? If it is a small part of a much larger property there is nothing wrong with replanting pines. Provides great bedding area early on and then as you begin to think trees you can plant food plot strips.
Click to expand...

It's part of 80 acres. I'm actually planning on doing that in a few parts, but for the most part I'm looking to transform the area into hardwoods. Food plot expansions are also planned.


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Chipdasqrrl said:
I am planning on clearing nearly 40 acres of Scots pines. Originally planted as a Christmas tree farm many decades ago, it was abandoned and is ready to go. I have a couple questions:

1) Does anyone have any idea how much the pines might be worth?

2) What trees should I plant that would be good in the future for both deer and timber value? The ground is perfectly capable of growing maples or oaks.

My ultimate goal is to transition this area into a profitable hardwood stand. Any helpful information is appreciated


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Click to expand...
What zone are you in? Your location says Northern Michigan. Is that where the planting site is?

Do you know what kind of soils you're planting in? I might get a couple of soil tests if I was going to replant 40 acres. The University of Wisconsin Extension offers forestry soil testing, so you could start there. I believe the cost is $22 per sample.
https://uwlab.soils.wisc.edu/soil-samples/forest-soil/

Knowing the drainage, soil makeup, and soil pH will be really helpful. Low pH sandy soils are going to be suited to different species than neutral heavy clay soils or loamy soils. Some species are pH sensitive, such as northern pin oak (quercus ellipsoidalis).

Nativ Nurseries will also give recommendations for trees if you send them soil samples. I'm not sure if they charge.

What are your goals? Are you willing to wait for desirable hardwoods, or do you want trees quick?
 
I didn't realize you were in northern Michigan that will probably limit some of your options. I'd check with a Forester and see what grows well in your area.
 
almanac12 said:
What zone are you in? Your location says Northern Michigan. Is that where the planting site is?

Do you know what kind of soils you're planting in? I might get a couple of soil tests if I was going to replant 40 acres. The University of Wisconsin Extension offers forestry soil testing, so you could start there. I believe the cost is $22 per sample.
https://uwlab.soils.wisc.edu/soil-samples/forest-soil/

Knowing the drainage, soil makeup, and soil pH will be really helpful. Low pH sandy soils are going to be suited to different species than neutral heavy clay soils or loamy soils. Some species are pH sensitive, such as northern pin oak (quercus ellipsoidalis).

Nativ Nurseries will also give recommendations for trees if you send them soil samples. I'm not sure if they charge.

What are your goals? Are you willing to wait for desirable hardwoods, or do you want trees quick?
Click to expand...

I'm in zone 5a. The soil is a well drained sandy loam, and I suspect the PH is usually around 5. I also ordered a soil test the other day.
I'm definitely willing to wait for desirable hardwoods. The other half of the property is a valuable stand of maples, which makes me want to transform this area into something similar or better. Thanks


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You might consider yellow birch if you're looking for variety.

For oaks on that soil and that pH, you could try:
Black Oak
Northern red oak
Northern pin oak / Hill's Oak (quercus ellipsoidalis), different species than pin oak (quercus palustris)
Bur Oak
Swamp white oak (marketable as white oak)
Schuette's oak, swamp white oak / bur oak hybrid, sometimes called swamp bur oak
Bebb's oak, bur oak / white oak hybrid

Sugar maple does well as you've identified.

American beech is another choice for those soils.
 
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almanac12 said:
You might consider yellow birch if you're looking for variety.

For oaks on that soil and that pH, you could try:
Black Oak
Northern red oak
Northern pin oak / Hill's Oak (quercus ellipsoidalis), different species than pin oak (quercus palustris)
Bur Oak
Swamp white oak (marketable as white oak)
Schuette's oak, swamp white oak / bur oak hybrid, sometimes called swamp bur oak
Bebb's oak, bur oak / white oak hybrid

Sugar maple does well as you've identified.

American beech is another choice for those soils.
Click to expand...

Any advantages or disadvantages of planting red and white oaks together? Or should they be separate? Think Sawtooths will grow in this soil?


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I have a planting that is white pine and then a row of N. Red oak, white pine then a row of white oak and the pattern continues. The pines help the oaks grow tall and straight and help self prune the lower branches. Once the oaks are big enough, we will cut the pines to generate an earlier income on the rotation. Deer habitate will be best the first 10 yrs and the. Will decline until a thinning occurs

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snowracerh said:
I have a planting that is white pine and then a row of N. Red oak, white pine then a row of white oak and the pattern continues. The pines help the oaks grow tall and straight and help self prune the lower branches. Once the oaks are big enough, we will cut the pines to generate an earlier income on the rotation. Deer habitate will be best the first 10 yrs and the. Will decline until a thinning occurs

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Click to expand...

Very interesting concept, I'll have to look into that. What's the spacing?


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