What Tillage Equipment

[Elkaddict]

I suspect most round up failures (excluding hard to eradicate species like clover) are caused my less than ideal coverage. Unless oversprayed, my boomless sprayer always misses some things. I'm rebuilding a 3pt 55galon boomed sprayer to try to address. I believe multiple nozzles pointing down will be more effective than 2 nozzles pointing outward.

 

[bigbluetruck]

Even then, if hes putting out 3qts of Rup/acre what he does get should be well dead.

 

[SwampCat]

I always miss a strip or two with the boomless sprayer - but this stuff is just tough. I bet a spring spraying during the growing season will result in a better kill

 

[Lewi B]

Down here in the south, late summer is really not the best time to break new ground. Tried that twenty years ago with the neighbors disk. Broke several disks before the young and dumb in ME was satisified.
If you can get the weeds bushogged short try cutting the ground the day after a rain. If not, breaking new ground is a job for January or February when there is plenty of moisture to let the disks bite.
Hope this helps

 

[Doe Shooter]

If possible, sometimes the best thing to do is burn all that residue off. Spray it, burn it, disk it.

I agree. Burn it or rake it. Mow it as short as possible. Let it dry and put a match to it. When starts to green up again spray it ,lime it (if necessary) then break ground. This is not the easy way, but better long term solution. Future planting will go much easier.I'd also tank mix 2-4D with the gly. It does not take much gly to kill grass. The 2-4D gets everything else.

 

[Mennoniteman]

Add some clethodim to the roundup. Rent a boom sprayer to get a good application. Notill drill some grain to get started and let the dead grass rot.

 

[Chainsaw]

New ground is a bear.Springtime is normally a lot easier especially if the field is killed well in the fall. The disking has likely damaged the grass some so spraying now might not take. Waiting until until the grass starts growing again in a couple of weeks and then spraying again could be effective. A lot of the roots will then rot and break up over the winter.

 

[SIL hunter]

I did the same thing a few months ago, my mistake was mixing the gly to weak. I think you are in the same boat here, 3 oz per gallon is pretty weak especially with this thick grass. I mowed mine with a brush hog, sprayed at 5 oz per gallon plus 4 ox deposion aid/ defoamer, come back 2 weeks later and the stuff you mowed will be dry and everything you sprayed should be dead, then I disk the perimeter and burned it. Bare dirt will cut up for you

 

[SwampCat]

Down here in the south, late summer is really not the best time to break new ground. Tried that twenty years ago with the neighbors disk. Broke several disks before the young and dumb in ME was satisified.
If you can get the weeds bushogged short try cutting the ground the day after a rain. If not, breaking new ground is a job for January or February when there is plenty of moisture to let the disks bite.
Hope this helps

That is truth. It hasnt rained in a month and dirt is hard as a rock. I have broke one disk blade. But, I want to get a food plot in here this fall. In my ground, you just have to realise it may take a year or two to finally get the plot worked up to your satisfaction. And you never know what winter will bring - it might be too wet to work. I have double disked it north and south and double disked east and west. Probably 75% of the grass is loose but it wont disk in because the ground is so hard. But, I believe I can now get a good stand of wheat on it with my Woods Seeder. The existing dead grass will rot away, and I will spray the wheat in Feb when it has been eaten nearly to the ground, allowing for a fairly clean planting bed in April for the Eagle Seed beans. Once the beans are in, I can keep spraying as weather allows - this is low ground and not always accessible. Next year this time, it should be a good planting surface.

 

[SwampCat]

I did the same thing a few months ago, my mistake was mixing the gly to weak. I think you are in the same boat here, 3 oz per gallon is pretty weak especially with this thick grass. I mowed mine with a brush hog, sprayed at 5 oz per gallon plus 4 ox deposion aid/ defoamer, come back 2 weeks later and the stuff you mowed will be dry and everything you sprayed should be dead, then I disk the perimeter and burned it. Bare dirt will cut up for you

I sprayed three quarts per acre, which is a quart per acre more than I usually spray. Yes, I would love to burn but scared to do it. No rain in a month and counties are starting to go under burn bans. I do my food plotting by myself and had a fire get out a few years ago. I have removed fire from my list of management techniques.

 

[SIL hunter]

I understand, when the winds swirl while its burning is gets a little nerve racking. I would go with the wheat/oats yet this fall and if you may throw some turnips/ radishes in with it to help break up the ground

 

[MK111]

5 yrs ago I took a 75 yr cattle pasture out of service to plant a food plot. I killed the grass off. I tried a 3 pt disk and it wouldn't even scratch the surface. The ground was so compacted I had to buy a 3 pt 5' tiller. It took 2 passes to get down 4-5". Now it tills like butter.

 

[FarmerD]

Fire can and will get out of control quickly, and should only be done under the right conditions.

Just a suggestion, but if you can buy/rent a single shank sub-soiler and make passes every 2 feet, you will find it will help with tillage greatly. Sub-soiling, when done right will "shatter" the ground 12" deep, opening up all sorts of cracks which will allow rain to penetrate your soil deeper, making it easier to till and will give you water deeper in your soil, vs having it run off.. SS when it's too wet and you won't shatter anything. SS when it's too dry and you might not be able to get it in the ground and will take a lot of horsepower. When done, wait 8 weeks and several good rainfalls and then disk. Preferrably do this in the spring.

The right conditions have to take place to be successful, but sub-soiling is great vertical tillage. You will be amazed.
http://www.everythingattachments.com/Fred-Cain-Tractor-Subsoilers-s/75.htm

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="

" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[SwampCat]

I have a sub-soiler. Might give it a shot.

 

[FarmerD]

Again, you might have to wait for the right soil conditions, if your ground is too hard right now. But shattering the soil and allowing water down in, will make a world of difference.

 

[TreeDaddy]

Fire can and will get out of control quickly, and should only be done under the right conditions.

Just a suggestion, but if you can buy/rent a single shank sub-soiler and make passes every 2 feet, you will find it will help with tillage greatly. Sub-soiling, when done right will "shatter" the ground 12" deep, opening up all sorts of cracks which will allow rain to penetrate your soil deeper, making it easier to till and will give you water deeper in your soil, vs having it run off.. SS when it's too wet and you won't shatter anything. SS when it's too dry and you might not be able to get it in the ground and will take a lot of horsepower. When done, wait 8 weeks and several good rainfalls and then disk. Preferrably do this in the spring.

The right conditions have to take place to be successful, but sub-soiling is great vertical tillage. You will be amazed.
http://www.everythingattachments.com/Fred-Cain-Tractor-Subsoilers-s/75.htm

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="

" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Bought my cultipacker from these fellows

great product and good service

bill