Mennoniteman

Well-Known Member
What is the best "Food Plot" species that can be managed for deer? Or, what are some simple, yet complete systems of "multiple species" that a beginner could plant and manage to provide food and/or habitat for Whitetail Deer? What are some more complicated plots that take more time, money, and equipment for greater benefits? I'm sure that each manager has their own idea of what the perfect answer is for their particular area. Plots such as the "Lick Creek food plot" are great examples of complete continuous plot systems, and there's many more out the like this. I am going to share my first choice here, and maybe some others, as my number one favorites, an example of a simple, yet complete plot, suitable for beginners, and give the reasons why it's number one for us. Bring your tweaks and critiques, and, if you have a favorite planting that seems to do well for you, please share it with us for the benefit of all of us.
 
"Dual System of Perennial Clover and Cereal Grain"
A perfect deer food plot needs to check a lot of boxes:
#1 Feeds deer year round
#2 Species has the ability to outgrow deer grazing pressure in small plots
#3 Grows in poor, low PH soil without a lot of soil amendments
#4 Can be managed without a lot of big equipment
#5 Is relatively inexpensive
#6 Doesn't require a lot of days of time specific maintenance throughout the year
#7 Seed is readily available
#8 Weeds are easily managed
#9 provides fawning cover
#10 Provides food for other desirable game species, but doesn't attract predators
#11 Unlike a monoculture, system keeps nitrogen and carbon balanced in the soil
#12 Not a lot of hours per year to manage an acre plot

So, this "Dual System of Perennial Clover and Cereal Grain" that I have been using for many years is my number one all-time favorite, because it checks every last one of the above boxes. But right up front I also want to mention, we are located in the Mid-Atlantic region;
#1 The biggest downside is that this is a cool climate planting that performs the best somewhere around zone 6, and will probably not work well in the south.
#2 A lot of areas further west have longer dry spells in the summer, this system needs periodic rains to thrive.

Equipment requirements, in order of importance:
Seed broadcaster
Mower
Sprayer
Disc (just to do initial clover seeding)
Wire Drag Harrow (Tractor Supply )

To get started, a stand of clover needs to be established, my preferred choice is Ladino, however, a mixture of other perennial clovers works too. For grain in our zone 6B I prefer rye, as rye outperforms winter wheat at the edge of the snow belt.
Rye and clover are two species that are almost like weeds, requiring much less PH and fertilizer than most other species, but for best results get the soil nutrients up to spec using a soil test. I like to start by tilling and prepping the soil in spring or fall, then broadcasting ladino clover with a nurse crop, buckwheat, oats or barley in early spring, wheat or rye in early fall, rolling the soil after broadcasting. Once the clover has been established, the keys to this system are broadcasting 200 lb per acre of cereal rye into the clover around Labor Day, then mowing the clover at at mid height or slightly lower right after broadcasting the seed. Dragging a wire "drag harrow" through the plot with an ATV etc. right after mowing also increases germination rates substantially by scarifying the thatch and shaking down the seed to the soil, but this is not a must. The rye should be 4-8 inches tall before first frost.
As the clover freezes out in late fall the rye keeps growing, feeding deer most of the winter, a time when they really need food, especially something green when everything else is brown. It's often only an inch tall, or less, but keeps drawing the deer to the plot, and rye can grow in as cold as 39 degrees on southern exposures when the sun shines.
In early spring the rye thrives as other growth struggles to get started, and deer will stay zoned in on the plot, even after other growth becomes available.
After the rye becomes tall, tough, and unpalatable, the deer are often still in the plot eating the clover below the rye. As the rye gets taller, going into tube stage, it now becomes prime fawning cover. Mowing at this stage is a mistake that will result in dead fawns, the rye should be allowed to ripen, and the grain will feed the birds. Deer will also sometimes eat the rye grain, although it's not a preferred food.
The yellow straw then starts to collapse, at this point it can be mowed or just let to expire. This is also the stage to spray the clover with Butyrac200, Clethodim, Imazethapyr, or Imox for grass control. Rye is allopathic, and usually controls the early spring grass species on its own, but different grasses like cattails can become a problem in late summer without spraying.
Next, anytime in a time window of within 2 weeks of Labor Day, the entire cycle begins again.
One of the biggest side benefits of these two species is that clover raises nitrogen and feeds on carbon, while rye raises carbon, and feeds on nitrogen, therefore, the two balance nitrogen and carbon in the soil.

Optional;
Chicory with clover.
Brassicas with rye (keep to a minimum or they will compete with the rye but not feed deer in March)

The hardest parts for beginners, in order of difficulty;
#1 Establishing a good stand of Ladino Clover (use name brand coated seed) (Establishing clover requires bare dirt and a nurse crop)
#2 Controlling grasses in late summer (grasses are always at war with clover).
#3 Broadcasting Rye into clover: getting sunshine to seed by mowing, and, getting seed to soil contact in heavy thatch conditions, or the seed will not germinate.


Here is a picture of the
"Dual System of Perennial Clover and Cereal Grain" plot at 14 days:
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Knowing a person's user requirements are so important. Mine are complex, but the unique ones are these:

Must be fast, cheap, easy, fail proof, high tonnage, and make it through the hunting season.

 
@Mennoniteman Thank you for posting this! This is the type of stuff that I come here for! Quick question though. Currently have a decent stand of clover but it is pretty weedy right now. What would be the best way to get it to where I could implement this system this coming fall? I don't really wanna start back at square one and till what I have under. But would that be the best option?
 
You have nailed what I believe to be the perfect plot with the following exceptions:
  • Substitute wheat for rye
  • Add a premium medium red clover to the mix along with the ladino
  • For me, the chicory isn't optional - it's a necessity.
Look mom, no fertilizer!!

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@Native Hunter why wheat over rye? Awnless wheat? And you mix chicory into the ww clover mix?

  • I've tried both wheat and rye, and I think my deer eat wheat better. They graze it hard in November especially.
  • I've not used awnless wheat, but from what I've heard I do believe it is better. However, my deer eat awned wheat heads just fine.
  • Yes, I mix the chicory in with the other stuff in the fall planting. I generally plant just a little before September first, and if you get good rains you will have some nice tender chicory before the first frost. But, when it really shines is the next spring and from then on.
Here is a good approximate mix per acre:
  • Chicory 2-3 lbs
  • Mixed clovers 12 lbs
  • Wheat 50 lbs
  • A brassica if you would like at 1-1.5 lbs
 
I am having a hard time making a decision on if I want WR or WW or both in my plot. Honestly I enjoy timber management more than food plotting. All this is to confusing with all the options haha
 
I am having a hard time making a decision on if I want WR or WW or both in my plot. Honestly I enjoy timber management more than food plotting. All this is to confusing with all the options haha

The solution is to do everything so that you are sure you didn't miss anything.......;)
 
Good mix MM. And Native I agree with the chicory , RC and WW. I still plant WR certain fields and WW in another. WR greens up faster in the spring and WW survives nasty winter weather better.
But you guys forgot to add brassica. Over seed that brassica in Aug into the clover and then get 3+ years of natures reseeding for free. The deer thank me daily !!
Now if I could figure a way to feed deer without planting , mowing , or sawing. Wait. That would be my fallow fields. I can’t get much lazier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I tried to punch out a detailed post earlier, and I ran outta time. A few thoughts I'll add to this, and if any of you have followed my philosophy, this won't be anything new.

*A good plot should work for us, not the other way around. It shouldn't need excessive interventions, inputs, time, equipment, and labor.
*A good plot should be resilient to adverse conditions like drought, flood, cold, heat, over grazing, weeds, etc.
*I require 100% life. Not a single second of man made fallow after establishment ever again.
*I like to push diversity to ridiculous levels. I break my plots into primary species and then secondary species or wild cards.

My current primary blend is about this nowadays. There's still some tweaking and transitioning going on, but this is the main idea.

Primary
Legumes: dutch white clover, alfalfa, birdsfoot trefoil, hairy vetch
Broadleaves: chicory, flax
Grass: Winter wheat, forage barley
+the brassicas

Secondary's (some of these take, some haven't yet, some are native)
Black eyed susan, purple coneflower, fleabane, willowherb, buttercup, wgf sorghum, sunflower, ragweed, japanese millet, plantain, squash, pumpkin
 
@Mennoniteman Thank you for posting this! This is the type of stuff that I come here for! Quick question though. Currently have a decent stand of clover but it is pretty weedy right now. What would be the best way to get it to where I could implement this system this coming fall? I don't really wanna start back at square one and till what I have under. But would that be the best option?
A decent stand of clover is a great start. If you have broadleaf weeds it's not too concerning, you could hit it with Butyrac200. But if you have grass it needs to be addressed, I'd try clethodim first. With a little bit of attention your existing clover should be just fine for a late summer or early fall interseeding.
I am having a hard time making a decision on if I want WR or WW or both in my plot. Honestly I enjoy timber management more than food plotting. All this is to confusing with all the options haha
Timber management is also my hobby and just as important as plots. My advice for you is to simplify, I specifically posted this simple, yet complete and very effective plot first, for people like you who might get confused with all of the complex options out there. Go back and re-read the second post, then just concentrate on that one system. (Balancing nitrogen and carbon is extremely important for a continuing, troublfree plot) Do wheat in half, and rye in half if you want. Once you have that plot figured out and working for you and are starting to get bored with the simplicity, come back here and study some of the other great options in the next posts.
Here's deer eating rye in clover (clovers froze off of course) several days ago. 20220304_070258.jpg
 
Knowing a person's user requirements are so important. Mine are complex, but the unique ones are these:

Must be fast, cheap, easy, fail proof, high tonnage, and make it through the hunting season.
That's a great "short list" and I'm hitting all of those with my simple Rye& Clover plots. For you it would probably be "Barley& Clover, but the basic concept is the same. I do have some very complex plots, and some fallow plots, but pound for pound and dollar for dollar, nothing produces per sq ft like Rye& Clover in Pennsylvania.
I kindof was showcasing my best "simple" plot to try to point beginners to a good starting point. I work with many landowners who know very little about growing stuff and I always start them with this one, usually with great success.
You have nailed what I believe to be the perfect plot with the following exceptions:
  • Substitute wheat for rye
  • Add a premium medium red clover to the mix along with the ladino
  • For me, the chicory isn't optional - it's a necessity.
Look mom, no fertilizer!!

qps1nR7.jpg

YE5Oavx.jpg

ODarSJp.jpg

hydYaPz.jpg
The main difference between rye and wheat is that you are further south, I'd do the wheat, but rye has a big edge in February in Pennsylvania. Our deer are ho-hum about chicory, they will walk past it to get to ladino? But then, our people here are known to be strange as well...
 
Hey MM. I like strange people, because they are the only people who like me....;)

I've seen deer take the top 18 inches out of a 4 foot tall chicory plant with one big bite - stem, leaves, buds and everything. They seem to prefer it here more than anything else. That's why I'm so partial to it. Great thread BTW!
 
I agree with native on adding MRC and Chicory. I also like to throw down any surplus brassicas I have laying around. With our weather, planting Labor Day does not give the brassicas a chance to shade out much. I like the diversity as do the deer.

You have nailed what I believe to be the perfect plot with the following exceptions:
  • Substitute wheat for rye
  • Add a premium medium red clover to the mix along with the ladino
  • For me, the chicory isn't optional - it's a necessity.
Look mom, no fertilizer!!

qps1nR7.jpg

YE5Oavx.jpg

ODarSJp.jpg

hydYaPz.jpg
 
I could answer what’s the simplest plot for a beginner. Because I destroyed my soil and my plots started off great and went down hill every year until I started listening to you guys.

Fall plant a grain, crimson clover, and a brassica. Let the CC mature the following year, throw your desired seed and mow. And It’s a beautiful plot and there is no question about what the person is looking at, which gives a real confidence boost.

But for you more experienced guys, how many years would be the max to repeat this process before I should broadcast into the CC before it seeds?
 
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I’ve had really good results following this regimen. The only struggle I have is cool season grasses competing with the rye and wheat. I’m left with either spraying clethodim early and killing the cereals with the grass before they mature. Or letting the cereals mature and the clover suffering from battling the cool season grass, which then rears its ugly head again the following fall. If the rye suppresses the cool season grass, I haven’t noticed it.
 
I’ve had really good results following this regimen. The only struggle I have is cool season grasses competing with the rye and wheat. I’m left with either spraying clethodim early and killing the cereals with the grass before they mature. Or letting the cereals mature and the clover suffering from battling the cool season grass, which then rears its ugly head again the following fall. If the rye suppresses the cool season grass, I haven’t noticed it.
Did you have a clean slate when you put your first rye crop in? I've never experienced anything beating rye outta the blocks in spring. But my world is also limited to my little postage stamp.
 
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