Restoring my fathers old hunting Jeep

Discussion in 'How to Build Stuff' started by JohnL48, Jul 22, 2016.

  1. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to attempt to copy and paste my restoration thread from QDMA here, maybe on HT too if I have the energy :-(

    Thought some of you would like to see my current project. It's my fathers old 67 CJ5

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    What it looks like now. After sandblasting and painting EVERY part, The chassis is going back together

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    I rebuilt the transmission, transfer case and PTO for the front winch. Pretty simple to work on.

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    Todays progress, finished the pto

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    Installed the master cylinder and brake/clutch pedals. Next week, all the brake lines and front driveshaft U joints

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    The original tub was shot. I was able to buy this donor jeep without an engine for $400.00 I parted most of it out and made a small profit and kept the tub. It's rough but I'm going to spend the winter working on it. Going to replace pretty much everything from the firewall back except the sides.

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    My redneck rotisserie I made to paint the frame [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
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  2. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    How an Italian bleeds brakes[​IMG]
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    Got all the brake lines in today and the brakes bled. This is almost exact as to how the factory ran the lines on top of the frame due to the exhaust pipe running up to the engine right there
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    Here's a tip for removing rust. I used to sand blast everything, too messy. Don't buy that $30.00 a gallon rust remover. Go to lowes and by toilet bowl cleaner called "the works" $1.00 a Qt. Soak your rusted parts in it full strength or cut in 1/2 with water depending on how long you have to wait. Do it outside cuz it stinks.

    Here's my rusty PTO shaft before soaking
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    I got a pc of pvc pipe and capped one end. Put the shaft in and filled 1/2 with toilet bowl cleaner and 1/2 with water and let sit over night
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    The shaft after, totally rust free
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    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
  3. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Quick update:
    I got the bell housing cleaned up today and placed it on
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    Also got the front shaft on

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    Everything gets painted [​IMG]
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    Jeep back in the day

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    Just had to set it on there for some motivation [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
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  4. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    So the next question is do I try to save these fenders with my novice sheet metal and welding skills? This is the best of the 2 and $1000.00 for aftermarket is divorce court for me
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    I decided to go for it. Man there are a lot of spot welds[​IMG]
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    This is why you don't take shortcuts. Look at the rust that was under this little panel, and this is the better fender. This would have bubbled the new paint within a yr. 39 spot welds for this panel [​IMG]
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    Getting back at it after the holidays. Still not sure about saving the fenders so I disassembled the v6 and I'm dropping the block off at the machine shop, then attempting my first engine rebuild to factory specs...oh boy

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    Well it's after the holidays so I got all the engine parts organized and ready to drop off at the machine shop. So this is my first engine rebuild. My plan if all the parts check out ok is to do a piston re ring kit, gasket kit, new cam and rod bearings, and a new cam and lifters. this will be interesting. Maybe a new career in the making lol
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    I removed the old Dauntless decal with a heat gun to try to get to some fresh paint so I can get an exact match
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    Found some factory markings on the intake manifold under the grease. I'm going to put them back on after paint....told you I was anal...
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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  5. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
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  6. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    1. [​IMG]
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      I used the green gauge, removed one bearing cap, placed it on the top of the journal then torqued the cap back down.

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      after removing cap

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      Right on the money. all the others checked out good
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    2. Put in new rope seals, what a pain in the butt to cut, even with a brand new razor. Will I have issues due to the frayed edges ? I can order a new kit. Not in a hurry to get it done.

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      Assembly lube all the bearings and put heavy weight oil on rope seal


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      Crank is in. All the caps torqued to 95lbs. Directions on the seals with the pins said to insert both pins in the groove on each side (4 pins total) is this correct ? I've seen it with one pin on each side ?

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      Checked the end play next. right on the money

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    3. Cleaned up the pistons too

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      Fun fun

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  7. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Ring clearance was good
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    so was the bearing clearance
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    I've learned to use the right tools
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    First piston going in
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    Clearance between piston rods good

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    Torqued to 35lbs

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    Pistons are in
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    Final job for the day, lubed up the cam and it slid right in

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  8. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Got the timing chain and gears on today. Need to clean some parts now.
    #1 piston at top dead center
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    Went on pretty easy. getting new chain dampers at Napa tomorrow.
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    Soaking the oil pan in " the works" toilet bowl cleaner to remove the rust

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    Blasted some parts today.
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    Spent today glass beading all the bolts for the motor. Just needed some cleaning up

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    Got the heads on today, Brake cleaned all the sufaces first,
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    High temp sealer on the bolt threads
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    Just making sure I get it right. Torqued three times at 35/ 55 / 75lbs
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    1. Decided to follow directions and advice and not soak the lifters. Applied assembly grease and slipped them in after cleaning intake area with brake clean.

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      Was going to use the old push rods but found damage on one
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      And of course after a closer look one bad rocker

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      So i took apart the rockers and checked everything, the shafts were worn. So i ordered new rods, shafts and a new rocker.
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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
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  9. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    1. Decided to follow directions and advice and not soak the lifters. Applied assembly grease and slipped them in after cleaning intake area with brake clean.

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      Was going to use the old push rods but found damage on one
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      And of course after a closer look one bad rocker

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      So i took apart the rockers and checked everything, the shafts were worn. So i ordered new rods, shafts and a new rocker.
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    2. [​IMG]
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      Everything on motor without texture gets treated with metal prep which neutralizes rust and etch's the metal

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      Also cleaned the timing chain cover real good and put in a new rope seal
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    4. Then realized Buick Farm sent me a RH rocker instead of a LH which I ordered and says so on the receipt grrrrrrrr back to a stand still. I haven't been able to find a LH anywhere else

      New one on right

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  10. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    1. Well I got one rocker arm back together with the new shaft.

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      Then realized Buick Farm sent me a RH rocker instead of a LH which I ordered and says so on the receipt grrrrrrrr back to a stand still. I haven't been able to find a LH anywhere else

      New one on right

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      1. So I am unable to find the right side so I bought a complete set of used rocker assemblies on ebay to get the one rocker. I got the one side together while I wait.

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        New push rods in
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        Assembly lube on everything then rocker assembly on torqued to 35lbs
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        Got the oil pump together. Decided to stay stock, no high pressure or high volume. Started by block sanding the mating surface's.

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        Middle spring is original, I used one on the left, 40 psi and new pressure valve.

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        Brushed some assembly lube in shaft housing

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        Filled the housing with petroleum jelly so it will prime at start up
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        New gears inserted

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        Then just scraped off excess with a straight edge.


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        Yes, I'm a gasket shellac compound guy

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        All buttoned up. Now waiting for more parts

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
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  11. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Today I got the new timing chain dampers on. For the spring I just used a small socket to pop it on. Pc of cake.
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    Put the intake manifold on next. Easy to place the gasket by putting the 4 bolts in loose then sliding the gasket in.

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    Torqued to 50lbs
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    I'm almost done but still need a fuel pump eccentric which is not looking good right now

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  12. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Well well look what came today after 5 weeks

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    Not sure how much the original faded but looks too dark and too green. I'm going to use it at this point but still waiting for fuel pump eccentric

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    Spraying it definitely changed the color a bit. With all the different shades these dauntless engines came in I'm happy with it. I'm sure the original color on my water pump is not exact due to age anyway

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    Since you all know by now I have a condition called rustophobia so any metal that would be hidden from paint after the motor was assembled I went ahead and sprayed a coat of enamel on them, I will just scuff before the final painting


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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  13. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Carb is apart, cleaned and media blasted, ready for rebuild

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    Some progress to report, I rebuilt the carb. It was pretty easy to do and saved me $ 300.00 to send it out
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    Finally located a cam eccentric from a member here, thank god for this forum.

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    Cam eccentric, distributer gear and cam button

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    I used permatex 2 on both sides of the timing chain cover gasket

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    Put some chassis grease on the eccentric for start up

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  14. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    When putting the water pump on a bolt snapped when I torqued it to spec, so much for the torque wrench being accurate.

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    Oil screen and pan next

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    Hope it runs as good as it looks


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    Its all in the details

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  15. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Started putting on the fun stuff today

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  16. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    I never found manifold paint that lasted so I'm trying this Calyx manifold dressing this time. Nice stuff

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    Just work it in with your finger

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    Done for the day
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  17. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Got some fun stuff today, if my wifes a secret member here I'm doomed

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    Today's achievements, new points, rotor (cap was wrong. Had to return) spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, coil and vacuum port

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    Waited 3 yrs to put the dauntless decals on and the wires hide them, :-0

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    Plasti dip on the wire holders

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    Apparently a new oil pressure sensor for the 225 isn't made in the proper size so you have to use a bushing
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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  18. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Bead blasted and painted cast iron grey

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  19. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    Got her out of seclusion today and washed her

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    Got to clean up some rusted parts from storage and shes ready for her new heart

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    New clutch fork and throw out bearing

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018
  20. JohnL48

    JohnL48 Well-Known Member

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    New motor mounts painted and put on


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    Getting closer

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    Flywheel machined, ready to go on

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    I learned the hard way to get it to bare metal at all the ground points

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    I decided wisely to call it a day and get some help for tomorrow


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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2018

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