Protecting new planted fruit trees??

Double L

Well-Known Member
I have on order a varity of 95 fruit trees coming from a Pa nursery that looked very nice and the owner helped out selecting the trees to be planted and where i am planting them. I plane on using my 18" auger and back filling with good top soil and his recommended fertilizer. He suggested using the tubes to protect the trees and also to help keep them warmer. I was thinking of also puting 3 T-Bar post in and chain link fence to help with bears destroying them. what have you guys done to help protect your trees? I allready have the fence I would just need to buy the post and I allready have a gas post driver that I use for my deer fence. thanks
 
This is cut from a post I made on my land tour thread. I will note one SIGNIFICANT difference between my situation and yours....I don't have BEARS! As such I don't need as sturdy protection. Deer are the biggest threat to my trees. There may still be some ideas/concepts here that you can use however. 95 trees is a significant project. I hope all goes well for you....good luck. Let me know if pic doesn't show up....I may have to re-post it.

Someone made a comment on another thread about a $5 tree and a $50 dollar hole.....and got me to thinking so I thought I would put some numbers to my little crab apple planting. I thought a pic would help.
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Tree price included shipping so you can see the actual "investment" if you will. This was a bare root tree and many 3 gallon container type trees will cost in the ballpark of $30 or even more sometimes.

The exterior cage is used to keep the deer and larger critters from destroying the tree. You can use old woven wire fence, concrete wire or whatever is cheap and easy that will retain it's shape. I use 5 feet tall because this prevents the deer from being able to easily reach down into it and getting to the tree. I also use roughly a 8 to 9 feet of linear length. Keep in mind the diameter you seek is a function of the linear length....the diameter is roughly 1/3 of the linear length just to keep things simple. My 8 foot length gives me a diameter of about 2 1/2 feet.

The post I used is called a "U" post and is a lightweight type post. You can use a common "T" post as well or any other post you wish to use. Just remember that wood will rot over time.

You don't have to use ground staples, I just did in this case because I was not able to immediately cover the weed barrier.

Weed barrier in my opinion is required. This is a fabric and NOT plastic. This allows the air and water to pass but not allow weeds to grow to compete with your tree. I use a 36" wide x 50 feet roll and have plenty for many trees. I simply cut a slit from the very center to an edge and install similar to an old school X-mas tree skirt. Just make sure it's at least the size of your exterior cage.

Interior cage is a requirement as well. The purpose it to prevent small rodents from chewing on the bark of the tree and killing it. It only needs to be larger than the trunk of your tree, however it needs to be tall enough to protect the trunk considering your typical snow fall level if at all possible. I use 2 or 3 feet tall x 5 feet rolls of 1/2" x 1/2" hardware cloth. Many use metal window screen as well and it works just fine.

I use bailing wire to fasten/wire the exterior cage closed if needed as well as the interior cage and to attach and hold the exterior cage to the post as well. It's cheap and it works and will last longer than something like a zip-tie.

I prefer to use gravel of some sort to cover the weed barrier. I get mine from a creek on my property....just takes some work. Some use wood mulch, but I have had issues with that so I switched to gravel and have not had an issue. The gravel allows the water to pass as well.

As you can see you will make an investment in the protection of the tree.....but do it right the first time and you only have to do it once. I don't know about a $5 tree or a $50 hole......but you should consider the cost and time of the protection materials in your projects to ensure you don't over extend yourself which tends to lead to cutting corners and frustration down the road.
 
Thank you j-bird. I called a few buddies in the fall to make sure they were onboard before I ordered all the trees. I got 51 trees going into one area 70 yards by 70 yards. I may just fence the square area of that space as it is going to be an orchard if all works out. the others will be planted in two of my plots to help make it more appealing to the deer in a few years. I also have wooden pallets from work which are 6' X 20' I thought of cutting down to 3'X5' and taking 3 pcs screwed together to make a triangle to keep bears away. From crops to cameras and equipment black bears cause havic with us. The bear I killed this season cost me $500 ranger seat.. So I dont want bears destroying the investment I"m making into these trees.
Thanks again
 
plywood with nails sticking through for the bears feet. I never tried this method but my local Virginia biologist suggested it. No fence is going to stop them in my experience except for possibly electric.
 
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Bears, hogs and wolves are all things I am VERY thankful that I don't have to contend with on my place. I hear bears are always a threat to fruit trees as they will simply tear limbs off the trees to reach the fruit if they can reach them....not sure how you protect against that!
 
I have on order a varity of 95 fruit trees coming from a Pa nursery that looked very nice and the owner helped out selecting the trees to be planted and where i am planting them. I plane on using my 18" auger and back filling with good top soil and his recommended fertilizer. He suggested using the tubes to protect the trees and also to help keep them warmer. I was thinking of also puting 3 T-Bar post in and chain link fence to help with bears destroying them. what have you guys done to help protect your trees? I allready have the fence I would just need to buy the post and I allready have a gas post driver that I use for my deer fence. thanks

I think you will be better off, in the long, run fencing your trees. Here is an example of how I do it. I drove in three T-posts, and make a hoop, out of 2x4 inch welded wire fence. A little over 18' of fence makes a 5' hoop. I attach the fence to the posts, one foot off the ground, so I can trim around each tree. I staple metal window screen around the base of each tree, up about 18 inches, to the two foot range. This keeps rabbits and mice from girdling your trees. I plant the screen with the tree, about 2" below the ground. I use a cardboard box, with a hole cut out for the tree, as a weed barrier. I sprinkle pea gravel between the box and the tree. Then we cover the box only with mulch. Don't mulch near the bark of your fruit trees.
Fruit trees in tubes, grow too fast; and they can snap off, if the tube falls over, for any reason. You also have access to your trees with this method, should you need to spray: dormant oil, paint, or anything else your trees may require.
I dont have bears, but if I did, I would only switch out the 2x4 welded wire fencing, with concrete remesh wire. With this setup, you may get by, with only one, or two posts, per tree.
Sorry, but I have no better close up pictures. I will get better pics, my next trip to the farm. This should give you an idea of how we do ours. I hope this helps.
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I may have to agree with j-bird though, I'm not sure, anything I'm doing, would keep the bears out, or not. It has worked well for deer, but I cant speak for bear damages. Even if you were to use the concrete remesh, I'm not sure how well bears climb fences, or do they just maul everything? Again, I'm not sure, and I have no knowledge of this.
Yet, this may give you some ideas, you can to adapt to your farm anyway.
 
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I do exactly what J-bird shows above except that I use the metal rebar electric fence post and occasionally put 2 instead of 1. I also use window screen at the bottom and close it with a regular office staple gun.

Great picture J-bird.
 
Electric is the only sure way we have found out that works. It’s expensive though if your orchard is of any size. 3 of the t-bars and a bunch of razor wire is what we use as a second option. Bear are the worst.
 
I do exactly what J-bird shows above except that I use the metal rebar electric fence post and occasionally put 2 instead of 1. I also use window screen at the bottom and close it with a regular office staple gun.

Great picture J-bird.
Thanks Native... I did such a "good" job that Turkey Creek Trees used a couple of my pics that I took and use them on their website (that was where I got my crab apples from). Should have tried to work out some sort of "deal" for the use of the pics....but wasn't thinking!:D My Engineer side sort of shown thru a little too much maybe...
 
This is cut from a post I made on my land tour thread. I will note one SIGNIFICANT difference between my situation and yours....I don't have BEARS! As such I don't need as sturdy protection. Deer are the biggest threat to my trees. There may still be some ideas/concepts here that you can use however. 95 trees is a significant project. I hope all goes well for you....good luck. Let me know if pic doesn't show up....I may have to re-post it.

Someone made a comment on another thread about a $5 tree and a $50 dollar hole.....and got me to thinking so I thought I would put some numbers to my little crab apple planting. I thought a pic would help.
index.php



Tree price included shipping so you can see the actual "investment" if you will. This was a bare root tree and many 3 gallon container type trees will cost in the ballpark of $30 or even more sometimes.

The exterior cage is used to keep the deer and larger critters from destroying the tree. You can use old woven wire fence, concrete wire or whatever is cheap and easy that will retain it's shape. I use 5 feet tall because this prevents the deer from being able to easily reach down into it and getting to the tree. I also use roughly a 8 to 9 feet of linear length. Keep in mind the diameter you seek is a function of the linear length....the diameter is roughly 1/3 of the linear length just to keep things simple. My 8 foot length gives me a diameter of about 2 1/2 feet.

The post I used is called a "U" post and is a lightweight type post. You can use a common "T" post as well or any other post you wish to use. Just remember that wood will rot over time.

You don't have to use ground staples, I just did in this case because I was not able to immediately cover the weed barrier.

Weed barrier in my opinion is required. This is a fabric and NOT plastic. This allows the air and water to pass but not allow weeds to grow to compete with your tree. I use a 36" wide x 50 feet roll and have plenty for many trees. I simply cut a slit from the very center to an edge and install similar to an old school X-mas tree skirt. Just make sure it's at least the size of your exterior cage.

Interior cage is a requirement as well. The purpose it to prevent small rodents from chewing on the bark of the tree and killing it. It only needs to be larger than the trunk of your tree, however it needs to be tall enough to protect the trunk considering your typical snow fall level if at all possible. I use 2 or 3 feet tall x 5 feet rolls of 1/2" x 1/2" hardware cloth. Many use metal window screen as well and it works just fine.

I use bailing wire to fasten/wire the exterior cage closed if needed as well as the interior cage and to attach and hold the exterior cage to the post as well. It's cheap and it works and will last longer than something like a zip-tie.

I prefer to use gravel of some sort to cover the weed barrier. I get mine from a creek on my property....just takes some work. Some use wood mulch, but I have had issues with that so I switched to gravel and have not had an issue. The gravel allows the water to pass as well.

As you can see you will make an investment in the protection of the tree.....but do it right the first time and you only have to do it once. I don't know about a $5 tree or a $50 hole......but you should consider the cost and time of the protection materials in your projects to ensure you don't over extend yourself which tends to lead to cutting corners and frustration down the road.

I do exactly what J-bird shows above except that I use the metal rebar electric fence post and occasionally put 2 instead of 1. I also use window screen at the bottom and close it with a regular office staple gun.

Great picture J-bird.

Thanks J-Bird and Native. Been messing with tree tubes for the last couple of years and started converting over to cages and metal electric fence posts yesterday. Aside from the extra cost, it’s a way better solution, at least for me, and well worth it. Appreciate the detail, I should have done this along time ago...



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Thanks J-Bird and Native. Been messing with tree tubes for the last couple of years and started converting over to cages and metal electric fence posts yesterday. Aside from the extra cost, it’s a way better solution, at least for me, and well worth it. Appreciate the detail, I should have done this along time ago...



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I have never used a tree tube, so I have no reference there. As for my post...that is nothing more than my adaptation of all the good advice I have been given over the years off of various forums (past and present) and from guys like Native and others who have been doing this far longer than I. Let us know how it goes and keep us up to date on progress....that way we all learn!
 
I can't see what J-Bird posted.

Is there anyway someone can repost another picture, so I can see, yours and Native Hunter's method? I may want to adapt my methods.
 
Paul Knox recommended NOT to tube fruit trees because it predisposed to infestations with borers and other pests/problems

He has a great thread titled Apple and Pear Trees on DoubleTree's Corner on Iowa Whitetails

Many of the questions Hillfarm raises are addressed there

bill
 
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I go a little bigger on my weed mat (6’x6’) and on my cage (12.5’ so I can get 4 out of a 50’ roll). Have recently been adding the aluminum screening too, but overall my set up is very similar. Also no bears to deal with.


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I can't see what J-Bird posted.

Is there anyway someone can repost another picture, so I can see, yours and Native Hunter's method? I may want to adapt my methods.
See if this works for you... I tend to cover the weed barrier with gravel...and NOT mulch. I have had issues with voles in the mulch and they then chew off all the support roots and thus kill the tree. I just get gravel from a stream. Don't forget to tag the tree/cage or you will forget what it is or when you planted it (experience talking right here). I do this with my fruit trees and other container trees. Some use 2 posts as well....I have not had a need to thus far.
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