Grafting technique pics.....

Discussion in 'Fruit Trees' started by dogdoc, Aug 6, 2016.

  1. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    i over wintered about 20 apple and pear trees that I started from seed last year. Due to the early spring several of them are already leafing out. I grafted 6 trees this morning. A special thanks to Brush for sending me some scions.

    First is an Enterprise Apple that was grafted with a whip and tongue.

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  2. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    Next graft is a cleft graft. I was given some scions of a Heritage Cider apple from a client. Exact apple is unknown as she forgot the variety.

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    Another whip and tongue from an Oriental Pear that Brush sent me.

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  3. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    I have one moonglow pear at the farm and want a few more. I decided to do a Saddle Graft for this. This is a very good graft but just a little more tougher than a whip and tongue (at least for me). I have good success using all 3 grafts but with the W&T and saddle I seem to get more cambium contact and the scions seem to grow faster. I wouldn't say I have more success when compared to the cleft but just better growth---I'm sure it is because of the increased cambium contact.

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    Think I still have 12 to graft but the other have only swollen buds and not leafing out yet. They will probably be ready in another 10 days or so.

    todd
     
  4. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    These were all grafted in the middle of March. Electrical tape is removed 30 days after i get top growth on the scion.

    a whip and tongue graft. This is a pretty graft union that I must have got great contact:

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    A Kieffer that is not as pretty but just as successful:

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    And a Saddle graft

    [​IMG]successful cleft


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    The white "scar tissue" will turn brown and shrink down in 3 to 5 days.

    todd
     
  5. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    Fish---don't you have some good pics of your bark grafting with persimmons? if so, would you mind posting them here?
     
  6. lakngulf

    lakngulf Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Todd, for preserving the grafting thread. The Doctor is in!
     
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  7. wbpdeer

    wbpdeer Well-Known Member

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    As we said - you can't keep a good man down long. Spring of 2017 I am going to try my luck at grafting native persimmon I have marked in a bottom field. I just wanted them to gain stem size before I give it a go.

    Hope you are better dogdoc.
     
  8. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    Nights are tough. Just hard getting comfortable for a deep sleep. Oxy is controlling the pain but unfortunately slowing other parts of my body also. Yuk!

    If you want persimmon scions next year just let me know.
     
  9. whitetail3080

    whitetail3080 New Member

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    Good thread guys!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. Doctorbrady

    Doctorbrady Well-Known Member

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    Great job with the pictorial Todd. Hope you start feeling better soon. I don't do as good a job of keeping photos for documentation and education, but will check to see if I have any archived to add as well.
     
  11. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    all these trees were started from seed last year 18's and grafted early this spring. so the actual root systems are 1 1/2 years old-mix of apples and pears

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    Probably not the best way to do it since I don't really know the characteristics of the root systems since they are from wild trees but I just enjoy starting the trees from seed and getting air pruned roots. I plant many more seeds than I actually need and only keep the very vigorous seedlings. Poor growing seedlings are tossed. I had an apple seedling that I grafted a dolgo to flower in it's 2nd year. A late frost killed the fruit but I was still very impressed. I would probably have better success by ordering root stock but it is fun starting your own.

    todd
     
  12. whitetail3080

    whitetail3080 New Member

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    That's awesome! Any idea of what the root system belongs too?


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  13. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    the pear seeds are from a wild pear tree on my dad's place. Apple seeds are from grocery store apples and from a local unknown crabapple.
     
  14. whitetail3080

    whitetail3080 New Member

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    That's cool. Thanks for the post. Keep pics coming on your progress!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. Fish

    Fish Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for being late to the party. Thanks for inviting me along, Doc.

    There are many styles to grafting persimmons, but when we are placing scions onto larger 1"+ stock, a bark graft is perfect. Others will hopefully post their techniques, but this one works very good for me and requires little expense. And let me ad, I don't believe anyone here is a horticultural expert. We learn by doing. I can honestly say that after studying apple and pecan grafting techniques, I went out and grafted my own trees with great success. You can do it too.

    First. The grafting box. Here I keep a grafting knife (which is an ole timer pocket knife with broken tips. Works Great!) tags, tape, and other odds and ends. I also carry a sealant for covering the cut on the stock. My scions are dipped in candle wax on both ends to keep them from drying out in storage.

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    Cut your stock, which is the native persimmon with roots in the ground.

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    Make a cut on the scion. Basically, the cut goes in about half-way through the wood and then straight out to the end, leaving you with a long straight flap.

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    I make a small cut on the opposite side of the scion, which gives the scion a wedge shape. Great for insertion into the stock!

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    Next, I measure the scion against the stock and make two cuts along both sides. This creates a "flap" on the stock where we will insert the scion.

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    Flap on the stock where we will insert the scion. This should be a pretty tight fit!

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    Insertion...

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    I use electrical tape to close it up. You want to tape it in strong and tight. This allows the cambium layers (the green edges on your scion and the edges of the stock's bark) to press together.
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    Spray with sealant. Coat with tree wound sealer. Or use toilet bowl wax. The idea is to keep the large wound on the stock from drying out.

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  16. Fish

    Fish Well-Known Member

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    Always label grafts if you want to remember the variety you've just grafted. Trust me, you won't remember if you're doing several varieties in multiple locations. It may not matter to you, in which case, don't worry with it. This persimmon stock could have taken two scions. That would increase the likelihood of success.

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    A successful graft........ Note the stick I taped onto the stock to act as a support for the growing scion.

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  17. Fish

    Fish Well-Known Member

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    More success....


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    Full disclosure. This graft failed. Note the sprouts growing up underneath from the stock. Sprouts will grow even when your graft is successful, but in this case, there is an obvious problem.

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    Success. Some of my trees will need to be freed of competing trees before next spring.

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    '

    This one grew wild. It has put on 3 feet of growth this summer!

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    It really is that easy fellas. Don't hesitate to try persimmon grafting if persimmons are common in your area. Your deer will thank you!

    Fish
     
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  18. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    Hey fish, thanks for posting your persimmon tutorial. Great set of pics.

    Todd
     
  19. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    Here are a few persimmons i grafted 3 years ago

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  20. dogdoc

    dogdoc Moderator Staff Member

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    most look like this about 3 weeks later

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    6 weeks post graft--persimmon scions grow fast. they get a lot of nutrients from the large root system of the mother tree

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    8 weeks

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    supporting the scion with a stake like fish explained is very important. the scions are easily blown off by strong winds
     
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