Grafting Oak Trees

Any tips on collecting scion wood? I'm new to grafting so I'm not sure exactly how to go about it.

You want last years growth. You can tell the difference as the bark will look different from the older bark. Cut them wrap in moist paper towel and refrigerate them. If you mail them as soon as you harvest them don't worry about dipping the cut ends in wax. I can do that when I get them. Just make sure they stay moist.

Matt


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I scoped out so small oaks I'm gonna try to bark graft today. When will you guys try your grafts? I think I'm gonna wait until it's consistently in the 70s I believe oaks will be like hickory or pecans temp wise. That's just a guess I know they say walnuts need warmer temps than that.
 
I'm going to wait till they are pushing leaves out a bit and try.
I did go and cut the top out of the white oak I t-budded Swamp chestnut oak to last aug. The bud appears plump and healthy so I have renewed hope in it.

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My dwarf chinkapin oak scions came in today. Hoping I can get some of these to take out in the field and bench grafted onto bur oaks bare roots. I think I'm a month to month and a half out from bark grafting.
 
So I had everybody in the family get sick and then had to go out of town so I never got a chance to go get some scions for Matt. When I came back in town I figured I was too late because everything seems to be budding out already. But when I went to go check the oaks I didn't see any green at all, so based on the video Matt posted above I made some cuttings:
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Think these will work?
 
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This is a dwarf chinkapin oak that I grafted onto a chinkapin oak. I'm hoping that this will produce a larger tree that produces acorns quickly. This tree was leaning severely so I won't have lost anything. I made this bark graft a couple weeks ago which may have been a little early because they bark wasn't slipping very well. I made a small scrap on these this weekend and they are still green so I'm hopeful they will push growth soon.
 
Good luck with them! I forgot to cut my oak scions so I'll play with t budding again or try next year. I do have a few pecans grafted I'm hoping to see growth on soon.

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Figured I would bump this up, i got a couple "heritage oaks" this year which are english/bur hybrids and they are grafted, i noticed a lot of the trees at local nursery are grafted but everyone is a variety of white oak from what i've seen. Guess it is possible.
 
I'm going to wait till they are pushing leaves out a bit and try.
I did go and cut the top out of the white oak I t-budded Swamp chestnut oak to last aug. The bud appears plump and healthy so I have renewed hope in it.

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Merle you ever get a chance to check back on your t bud?
 
Merle you ever get a chance to check back on your t bud?
I don't think it took. I looked earlier this year and had no growth from the bud.
I'm planning on trying to bark graft it this spring.

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The short answer on grafting from oak guy, Guy Sternberg,

"As Paul Ryan said about health care "reform", it's HARD! You need such exact timing and climate control that you won't be able to do it without the right greenhouse, a lot of experience, and maybe a hot pipe."
 
The short answer on grafting from oak guy, Guy Sternberg,

"As Paul Ryan said about health care "reform", it's HARD! You need such exact timing and climate control that you won't be able to do it without the right greenhouse, a lot of experience, and maybe a hot pipe."
Shedder, I do think I was off on the timing, the bark didn't slip well when I put the buds in last year.
I don't believe bark grafting will be that difficult, though I may find out otherwise based on the results next year.
I have an old copy of J Russell Smith's "Tree Crops a permanent Agriculture " and they were field grafting oaks in the field with just waxed muslin. Hopefully I can pull this off if they can lol!

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I attempted top working a leaning chinkapin oak with dco using a bark graft and it didn't take. I think I was too early this year that early warm up we had here made me start earlier than normal. I like the idea of t budding though so I may try both next year.
 
This is a subject ive been really interested in for a bit now. I have almost exclusively northern red oaks on my property and while they are useful at points in the season when they do drop, I would like a more diverse and lengthened food source. I had an extreme leaning one that was cut and it sent out pencil sized side growth. I figure that may be perfect for grafting on some white oak species if I can gather any before february. Thank you for all the info I read through so far and the link to the tree crop book. Lots of reading to do now!
 
This may help.

https://www.internationaloaksociety.org/content/book-review-bench-grafters-handbook

"In the introduction the author clearly defines what this book is about: “the fusion of skills and knowledge involved in grafting temperate woody plants.” Bench grafting is the term used for any grafting not carried out in the field.

Since starting his working career in 1954, Brian Humphrey has worked for the renowned Hillier Nurseries and Notcutts Nurseries in Great Britain. Now retired and living in coastal Suffolk, England, Brian has compiled his life-long experience in all aspects of grafting trees and shrubs in a 638-page volume. A book for study as well as a great reference for all who want to learn about grafting or gain deeper knowledge of the craft. The paperback is large and quite a handful, but it opens very well and is easy to use and makes comfortable reading.

The book is divided into eight parts covering different aspects of grafting, from background knowledge (“Why Grafting?”) to a most useable checklist with details of more than 200 genera, encompassing over 2,000 species, varieties, and cultivars.

In Chapter 12 (“Compatibility”, in Part Three: “Achieving the Union”) the author is not afraid to touch on the bias against the use of grafts: “Several genera with known compatibility problems present a particular challenge, Quercus being a prime example.” Most interesting is to read about his thoughts on how future investigation may reveal the mysteries of this problem. Recognizing incompatibility, causes of incompatibility, predicting incompatibility, and strategies to overcome incompatibility are all clearly dealt with.

Unusual grafting techniques and suggestions are offered to overcome this incompatibility problem. One of them involves hybrid seedlings as rootstocks. Another technique described is double-working, which, according to the author, has particular relevance for Quercus. In this technique, a portion of inter-stem is grafted to the rootstock, then scion is grafted to the inter-stem. As an example, Brian describes his limited but promising success in grafting Q. lamellosa to Q. myrsinifolia. He suggests that the success may be due to the particular characteristics of the Q. myrsinifolia rootstock used, and that this plant could be vegetatively propagated to create a mother-plant that would in turn provide inter-stems for grafting Q. lamellosa on Q. myrsinifolia using the double-working technique. Although the success was only one of very few in a trial batch, the result could be a big step forward in finding ways to overcome the difficulties of grafting Quercus in subgenus Cyclobalanopsis. He is probably the first to ever have been successful in grafting species of oaks within this subgenus!

Chapter 19 is about the role of grafting in conservation. Not only for plants of interest in cultivation but also for naturally occurring species, subspecies, and natural hybrids. An example given is grafted Magnolia omeiensis from a range of genotypes that are due to be planted back on Mount Omei in China to supplement those in existence on the mountain.

Chapter 49 (in Part Seven: “Genera-Specific Requirements”) is about the genus Quercus (as the author states: “the most challenging of temperate genera to achieve long-lasting compatible graft unions”). In 11 pages (only the chapter on Rhododendron extends to more pages—18!) all aspects about grafting oaks are presented: for each subgenus and section, the author recommends what rootstock to use for which species. In addition, the appropriate season for grafting, grafting methods, type of scion wood, and physiological and environmental factors, are all clearly dealt with and practical information is provided. Although mentioned in chapter 4, but not specifically for Quercus, I missed in this overview the aspect of grafting as low as possible (at or below the hypocotyl). The objective being that when planted deep (with the graft union planted beneath the soil) the scion will start rooting and eventually will develop into a tree growing on its own roots, thus overcoming delayed incompatibility.

Throughout the whole book photographs and line drawings accompany the text. The book ends with a plant index, a subject index, and an extensive bibliography of works cited that elicits respect for the enormous amount of work the author went through to compile this handbook. To summarize: this book will certainly be a long-term standard reference book for all who are propagating by grafting and for all who show an interest in grafting and want to know more about this subject! "
 
Going along with my other thread on grafting Chestnuts I got to wondering about grafting oaks. Is there anyone one here with experience doing this? I have some Concordia oaks that I would like to take some graft wood from and try to graft on to a bur oak seedling or something similar.

Matt
 
Going along with my other thread on grafting Chestnuts I got to wondering about grafting oaks. Is there anyone one here with experience doing this? I have some Concordia oaks that I would like to take some graft wood from and try to graft on to a bur oak seedling or something similar.

Matt
Not about grafting but has any one collected acorns for a scatter type planting.I live in a urban area with a neighbor that is a bit strange.Last fall she filled at least six bags of about 50 lbs each.Any thought how to store and when to plant? Both white and pin oaks.Thanks.
 
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