dbltree's hing cutting thread

We have a couple places on the farm, this setup may be interesting to use. If you look toward the south west end of the farm there are two such corners. One by food plot number 17 would be easy to manipulate with a hingecut mess. The other is by 16. The problem with this setup is the property fence just a short distance away. This makes it a bit of an area issue.



My thought is this...work on the fence! We can make the fence higher and add some hinge cuts on our side to thicken it up.
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Maybe from this...before the funnel:



To this...The only problem I see is that the wind could be an issue with a food plot in front and trails behind the stand site.

 
Here is an example of using some natural impediments where only minimal hinging is required to complete the funnel. In this case deer travel from neighboring cover and it's a real hot spot during the rut. There is enough cover that deer prefer to stick to it but not enough that they might bed there. The blue line indicates the road/fence and the green lines indicate a very steep ravine that deer prefer tor to stumble down.



These are some pictures from my stand where elevation helps me show what you cannot see from the trail cam view



The green lines indicate the ravine and steep cuts that jut up from it, the orange line indicates the runway that brings deer within 20 yards of my stand.



In my Journal I shared pics of a doe I killed that bailed off into that ravine and I had to get my son to give me a hand getting her out of there. He hopped in the sled we haul deer in and rode it to the bottom of the ravine...just to give you an idea how steep it is.

We always want to take advantage of any natural travel impediment that might alter a deer's travel and then fine tune it with hinging or other obstacles.

Behind me is open field that while bucks do cross it obviously during the rut, they usually prefer the safety that the tree cover provides.



Deer follow a fence row to this point and that's it...so don't overlook some very simple entry points to your property funnels. This one allows me to hunt barely 50 yards off the road so i do not disturb deer in anyway. They don't smell me, see me or have any clue I have ever been there.

They filter in from all points and even follow the road down to the fence jump.




They eventually cross beyond me and scramble up the steep bank on the other side



Until then they prefer to avoid the steep ravine



These photos from a telephoto lens are probably 50 yards away





This is just a series of cam pics showing groups of deer coming through the funnel one after another



One group comes thru and the next ones appear in the background

 
In early fall it is easy to pick does off with out alarming large numbers of deer...I simply wait for a single doe and fawn or the last in the group.



In late fall into winter I wait for the buck that will invariably follow a few seconds later



Not only do funnels make it incredibly easy to harvest whitetails it is also easy to do cam surveys that allow the landowner to know both the quantity and quality of deer that are using his/her property.



By monitoring and hunting only narrow funnel travel corridors I significantly lower the risks of inadvertently molesting deer. I don't travel any where near bedding or feeding areas so I don't leave a "mark". Hunting strategy then is amazingly simple and utilizing this concept one can follow only a few very basic rules to hunt your property successfully.

Hunt the wind...only and always! Most corridors allow you to have two stands so you can utilize at least two different winds. Because they are narrow in most cases the hunter can access stands or cams without crossing runways or bedded deer. It's simple, amazingly easy and landowners and managers have at their fingertips the means to lower your frustration level and increase your harvest success.

Start with aerial photos, use cams to monitor current travel , observe during season and then tighten up bottlenecks for next season...you'll be glad you did....
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I really enjoy sharing information with my friend Rich Baugh because he utilizes many cams to monitor his deer and that of course tells him how and where they use his habitat. Rich does have a large farm so he is able to hold mature deer and what he learns from that is always interesting. When you know a buck is residing on your farm you can be patient and allow him to mature and then kill that buck at 5 1/2.

Rich has been making a habit of that for some years now and killed a 191" behemoth recently and Rich shared a little habitat info that affected how and where this buck lived.

This picture of rye in his corn field also give you an idea that he has built the same type of habitat that I do...food sources surrounded by NWSG, surrounded by timber....perfect!



The larger the property, the more cover we have and the more likely we can hold bucks to maturity. Rich mentioned that "Dozer" lived in a 60 acre timber that is largely wide open partially because it needs to be logged and the market is depressed right now.

Within that 60 acres however he has hinged 3-4 acres 2 years ago and Dozer immediately took up residence there and lived in a 1//2 acre area since then. Rich noted that it is amazing how many deer bed in that hinged area!

Dozer bedded there because Rich had food sources within 300 yards going into winter and with the same thing happening this winter, this buck was easy to pattern. Rich was patient, allowed him to mature, patterned him with trail cams and then killed him as he came out to feed at 4:30 like he had done every day before.

Some of this should be obvious...the importance of hinging to create bedding, how much deer prefer hinged areas versus wide open timber, using trail cams to know what bucks are living there and then pattern them to kill them.

Winter food sources keep deer from moving to the neighbors during the most difficult times of the year and a combination of cover types insulate bucks from activity and they are more likely to stay put. Rich knows the importance of sanctuaries and leaving those areas alone but he also does habitat work, shed hunting and checks trail cams and that activity did not cause these mature animals to leave his farm.

On smaller farms we have to try harder and build the best premium habitat possible to be able to hold bucks to maturity. We have to hunt wisely and funnels allow us to do that without molesting deer in bedding or feeding areas.

The value of a chainsaw then cannot be underestimated but neither should the fact that a complete habitat program that provides year around cover and feed be overlooked.

Rich provides just such a program and even then acknowledges that he has much to do...but then again....don't we all....
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Landowners new to hinging often wonder exactly how to make the cut, how far to cut etc. I hope to make some short video clips soon but here are a couple photos to get you started.

Every tree is unique and different but hinging for bedding usually does not require that the tree tip over in any certain direction. I look at the tree first and then begin a cut that will allow it to fall the way it is naturally leaning. I cut on an angle and perhaps 60-85% of the way through the tree.



Often I can give the tree a push and tip it on over...two people can also work together by using a light pole and applying pressure farther up the tree.



Smaller trees obviously are easier and safer to work with and this gives you an idea what the "hinge" is likely to look like.



The larger the tree, the more difficult and dangerous they are to hinge so work with smaller trees first and be extremely careful with larger trees. The are so heavy that when they start to tip, a few may split and send the tree slicing backwards like a giant spear....even if you have a helper there there may be nothing they could do to save your life.

Be safe...wear chainsaw chaps and helmet and don't take unnecessary risks when working in the timber!
 
Great information Paul. Just a tip to those who are new to chainsaw work (I worked for a tree service for several years). From what i can tell, it looks as if Paul is wearing an arborist helmet. Arborist helmets are great for doing work in trees or ground work under someone doing tree work, however, there are slightly better options available for someone who is running a chainsaw at ground level. Arborist helmets generally only protect your skull from overhead dangers. They are basically a well-fitted hard hat. What we did all of our ground chainsaw work in was these:




I can't tell you how many times the face shield has saved my cheeks, mouth and nose from branches that break and go in "unexpected" directions. In addition, the helmet has built in ear protection and the face shield keeps saw dust out of your mouth and nose faily well. The mesh is fine enough to keep the big chunks out, but still does allow dust through, so additional eye protection is still recomended.
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Just a reminder in regards to hinging...I have a limit at roughly 12" DBH that I feel is safe to hinge and those larger then that I girdle. Hinging or falling large trees is extremely dangerous so please don't even think about messing with the larger ones!!
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I'm not the greatest "artist"...(ok...I'm a terrible artist
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) but here's a rough version of a funnel that i hope shows how I made it such a mess that deer don't bed in the area behind my stand.



I come in from a field and have some trees i have to step over (if you leave a clear path the darn things will follow it right to your stand....)

Some funnels could have stand either side but in this case there was no place for a stand and if there were...getting to it would be dicey.

Hinging for bedding can be pretty "messy" but hinging in the immediate area of the funnel (behind the "fence" hinging along the edge of the funnel) is more then just a mess. In this case they explored it at first and browsed on the hinged tops along the edge but a year later they just travel the funnel and have I have never noticed any in the hinged areas.

All you have to do is...be there...



Course once in awhile they get tuckered out and have to stop and rest a bit...right under my stand....



This funnel is awesome morning or night but I prefer to slip in under cover of darkness in the morning. Either way...thus far I have never jumped a deer going in or out although as that last picture shows...anything is possible....
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Sometimes there is a tremendous amount of "hoopla" over the bedding issue, for most of us it's just common sense but some put way to much emphasis on creating a "bed" versus a thick safe sanctuary. Usually the reason for that is because they simply don't understand enough about whitetail behavior, so let's see if we can make a little sense of it?

A mans wife says to him..."c-mon over here big boy and you'll have a night you'll soon not forget"....man says..."nawww...I have my comfy Serta mattress so I think I'll just get some sleep"...
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Realistic? Possible perhaps but knowing the average man I suspect "sleep" would be the farthest thing from his mind at that moment.

Whitetail bucks....yearlings have a range up to 1200 or more acres while a 5 1/2 yr old may spend his time on 140 acres or less...EXCEPT during the rut! We create thick brushy sanctuaries that hold deer but the older the buck gets, the less he likes being around other deer so he may spend the summer and early fall in a little draw or field of NWSG or in a small area within a larger bedding area.

One would think then that we could pin down a buck and kill him easily if we know where he beds but...the older they get they have this nasty habit of becoming nocturnal, rare exceptions of course but those fellas don't last long. So what then? We have a 4-5 yr old buck living on our property but he won't budge til after dark...but all that changes during the rut! He didn't get old by being stupid so unlike the 2 1/2's he doesn't run along a scrape line before dark like an idiot but he is vulnerable because he is on his feet and moving before dark.

That takes us back to the analogy at the beginning...would we be so naive as to think that from late October to early December that any bucks are going to look for does all day and then scamper back to their "bed" when they get tired??? Friends....these bucks are big and powerful and charged up with hormones that would wear out the Energizer Bunny! They aren't going back to their bed...heck they aren't going to bed anywhere until they are exhausted and at that point odds are it will be with a hot doe.

Cool! So now they'll both run back to the bedding area and we'll way lay em! Maybe...but 9 times out of 10 he'll run her as far away from other deer as he can. Middle of an open field, a little used draw that leads to nowhere and other such places seldom used by numbers of deer.

Cheez Whiz! I did all this work making these bedding areas and now he is no where to be found...yeah...if it was easy we would all have a wall full of Booners.

So....assuming your goal, regardless of where you live is to begin to encourage more/older aged bucks to spend more time on your property and increase the odds of harvesting one consistently...there are things wayyy more important then worrying about making a "buck bed".

Create thick brushy sanctuaries by any means possible, logging, TSI, hinge cutting and planting shrubs and conifers and keep a constant succession of new cover by doing a new area every year or two. Build bottlenecks between bedding areas and to food sources so that ANY bucks that travel your property will be forced through narrow corridors vastly increasing your odds of an encounter with the most mature bucks in your area.

The browse and cover combined with adjacent year around food sources in safe, secure hidden areas well screened from human activity will hold more does then you bargained for. Those does will in turn bring bucks out of the woodwork that will have no other choice but to travel through the funnels to check doe bedding areas.

Spending time on complex, detailed individual beds is neither necessary nor productive because it only increases the time you are in their bedroom. Tip em over and get out!



Leave some areas semi open so deer can move around and travel yet be well screened



The cull trees in my area consist of primarily shingle oak, smooth and shagbark hickory, ironwood, maple, elm and honey locust. Of those the shagbarks are the least likely to remain alive while the others, regardless of angle of cut survive with even a tiny sliver of bark attached.



Reducing shading canopy by ANY means will encourage new shrubby/brushy growth that will in turn cause deer to bed and feed there and I emphasis FEED because browse is an essential but often completely overlooked element when dealing with our timber habitat.



I cannot over emphasis enough the need to use trail cameras to monitor your deer and to evaluate your habitat program, because without this toll you will be clueless as to what is going on. Without cams you have no idea how many bucks are using your habitat...note 3 bucks in a row going through this funnel!



Without trail cams you are completely in the dark with no knowledge of bucks actually living in your habitat from year to year. So they are important tools to watch young bucks



become older bucks



and eventually mature bucks



All using the same funnels in and out of the same bedding and feeding areas and ample proof that the habitat we have created is meeting our goals of holding not only more bucks but more mature bucks as well.

Don't fret the small stuff! Life is complicated enough with out adding dribble about making "beds"...make a mess! Log, or hinge a percentage of your timber every year and maintain funnels between them and keep deer adapted to traveling only to your food sources by not forcing them to look elsewhere! The right food source combination's that will feed them year around will in turn give them no reason to leave.

Be safe...hinge smaller trees and girdle larger ones to open up canopy...get in, get out and leave em alone....
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Every woodlot or timber is unique and different and the quality of timber there may vary widely. When the woodlot is higher quality oak and walnut crop trees then we have to take a different approach then if it is poor quality elm, ash, hickory and maple. Every landowner has different goals, so mine may not be the same as yours so i can only share ideas and guidelines to consider.

Some landowners can not afford to hinge cut trees because they need the trees for firewood and to others growing quality veneer oak and walnut logs takes precedence over growing quality whitetails. There is then, no across the board "right or wrong" way to manage your timber but I always strongly recommend walking your timber with your forester first and have him/her help you establish a Forest Stewardship Plan that will help achieve your goals. If whitetails are your priority, let them know so they can help you mange the timber accordingly.

Open timber is not the best whitetail habitat but it is also not wise to massacre a beautiful stand of white and red oak such as this one. I suggest in a 20-40 acres timber that you may choose 2-4 acres in the center for instance and work on thickening that area up even if you sacrifice a few crop trees and designate that as a safe bedding area.



Right now timber prices are somewhat depressed but...for those with a large percentage of crop trees in their timber I recommend doing some selective cutting (logging) under the guidance of a qualified forester. Removing large crop trees and leaving the tops behind instantly creates new cover that will start holding more whitetails.



In my area one needs a minimum of 10,000 board feet or roughly 50 crop trees before a logging company will consider buying them but that can vary and again, discuss all that with your forester. Whitetails will almost over night begin bedding amongst the downed tops, backing up to the cover they provide to bed.



The tops screen deer and instantly changes the "open" atmosphere where they can be seen for a "country mile" common in open mature timber. Opening up canopy will encourage new regeneration and a more brushy environment that will encourage whitetails to spend more time there.



As with anything there are cautions and continued management is required because invasive shade tolerant trees such as hickory, maple and ironwood may spring up and unless you want them to take over you'll need to eventually go back and hinge those trees.

Other invasives such as honeysuckle may also creep in so never ignore your timber and manage it wisely with the help of qualified professional foresters.

The key is always the same...reduce shading canopy and encourage a thicker, brushy type understory and deer will live there...perhaps more then you bargained for...
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Thanks for the pic Phil! Some great habitat there!
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I recently shared pictures of a violator who in cooperation with a neighboring landowner has been attempting to hunt/drive deer from surrounding farms to his friends property. They are competitive archery shooters and hunt together and have practiced this routine many times until...I caught him on my trail cam.



Without cams I wouldn't have known and the funny thing is that people walk thru the same funnels the deer do for the same reasons...it's easy! Neither people or deer care to stumble through downed trees and brush when they can walk down the trail so funnels make it easy to catch both deer and violators on trail cams and make harvesting a good buck significantly easier.

Violators are everywhere...no state or county is immune so as landowners it's something we have to deal with because it is often a significant problem that many are not even aware of. Wives or friends drop them off so they can hunt through without a vehicle parked on the road, professionals use night vision equipment or simply shoot them from the window during daylight hours.

We can lower the negative impacts of these violators by turning our properties in thick dense cover! Edge feathering to provide screening, hinging to create thick cover within our timber, planting shrubs and conifers, planting NWSG, establishing permanent shelterbelts to screen our property from the roads ALL combine to create a poachers nightmare!

We work hard to create sanctuaries only to have some clown walk through it, we allow young bucks to mature only to have someone poach it during bow season using a rifle. Without trail cam surveillance it is nearly impossible to know what is going on and without top quality dense habitat we only make it to easy for poachers to take advantage of our hard work. Don't dismiss or discount the violator element in your overall habitat goals.

I've shared pictures of boat loads of deer in my food plots...



but food alone will not hold deer on your property! My neighbor called me last night to tell me he hauled some round bales back to his cows in a protected area next to the fence between my place and his. My side is timber and part of it runs uphill and is visible from this remote are of pasture so he commented to me "You know where you cut (hinged) all those trees?"...I said yeah..."I counted 27 deer in there on that hill when they stood up and started moving when I got close with the tractor"...

When you combine year around food sources with year around cover you'll hold deer year around....simple as that...
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Cover

You can't have to much cover and regardless if you log, hinge or plant shrubs and conifers....creating thick brushy cover will in turn attract and hold large numbers of whitetails including mature bucks.

These are examples of naturally regenerated cover...



Deer pour out of this cover every evening



Brushy shrubby type cover allows them to lay down and see danger approaching



and then get up and flee withe cover between them and the pursuer



Brush also equals browse and natural browse takes the pressure off from planted food sources as well as keeping them fed through the difficult winter months. Think brush/cover/sanctuary and building better whitetail habitat with it today...
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Timber Edge-feathering

Edge Feathering gained popularity many years ago as a means of enhancing small game habitat, especially for quail. It didn't take long for me to figure out it also made fro great trail blocking and screening for whitetails!

These trees are often too big to hinge so larger trees I simple cut down and then swing them around with the tractor and loader.



It's easy to see how one can almost instantly block off runways along a field edge over a very long area if you have the cull trees to do so. In my area the combination of sunlight and protection of the tree tops causes the edge to explode with new growth. Blackberries, vines etc. all take advantage of this protected environment to grow and flourish and in doing so only add to the blocking effect while increasing browse along the edge.



Funneling deer out through one or two runways versus dozens makes for more effective trail cam surveys and increases successful encounters in hunting season! Edge Feathering is a win win for wildlife and hunters both!
 
Blocking

Can you make an area too thick? You bet! That's why hinging can also work so well for trail blocking!

These pics are an example of a low area that deer crossed randomly across the entire length of it and I set out to prevent that and force them all to travel within 20 yards of a ground blind.



Where deer have the opportunity to bed on any ridge or even a rise they will do so and low areas that tend to be wet will seldom be used for that purpose anyway.



Deer will feed along and through low areas so it's a great place to create browse....note the re-growth sprouting off the stump in the right foreground



In this case I left the White Swamp Oaks standing and tipped over the shingle oak, ash and maple to make such a thick mess they simply don't go through it. Ridges tend to be less fertile soil so re-growth is often less robust and hinging can be more aggressive.

Regions where the whole area is low land are of course a different story as deer have little other choice in regards to bedding but one can expect more vigorous re-growth once canopy is removed. Depending on the type of trees and stage of growth sometimes small pockets left untouched may actually be preferred so each landowner may wish to experiment and note which habitat receives the most use.

In either event the use of hinged trees to block runways and create funnels is a tremendous tool that can greatly increase your hunting success and provide more effective trail cam surveys....
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Timber Stand Improvement

TSI should be one of the first steps in our timber and that requires that we enlist the help of a qualified forester who can then write up a Forest Stewardship Plan that can help us meet our goals of improving both our timber and our whitetail habitat. In many cases the forester may recommend that a select cut be done to remove market size logs and after that is done we can then begin TSI work.

TSI involves Crop Tree Release which involves removing competing canopy on all 4 sides of the crop tree which we select as being the best candidate to release just as we would do in thinning plants in a garden. Typically the cull trees are girdled and in some cases treated with Tordon RTU to prevent regrowth but often we can hinge cull trees to increase bedding cover and open up competing canopy at the same time.

Across the country landowners may have different species to deal with so it's imperative that you understand what tree species look like before attempting this (look at the second page for common species in the Midwest)

It's important to remember here that cost share is available through state and federal programs so often we can get paid to improve both our timber and our habitat....check the Getting Started thread for links on that subject.

I am currently working on TSI projects for hunter/landowners who desire to improve both timber and habitat and the following pictures are from a timber where logging has done first and we are following up with TSI and utilizing hinge cutting as a means of culling many of the cull trees. In this case ironwood is one of the worst weed trees with lessor amounts of ash, hickory and elm of varying sizes so i hinge everything from 1" to 8-10" in diameter and either girdle or hinge larger trees depending on how safe the situation is. Ground in SE Iowa tends to be very hilly and steep so in many cases it's simply to risky to attempt to hinge any larger trees.

This is a snow covered stump with oak re-growth coming up from the cut...logging opens up canopy which in turn encourages oak regeneration, cover and browse



This is just natural regeneration from acorns that now are able to survive with canopy reduced.



This pic just gives one an idea of the type of terrain...a watershed with a series of ridges and steep draws leading up or into the drainage and how the oak tops themselves immediately offer some cover and screening.



This an ironwood (I believe...the pocket camera pics are not the best and my eyes even worse) that I hinged...they are common and a very shade tolerant tree that foresters will encourage landowners to cut. It's a win win for both timber and deer when we tip them over.



These sized trees are easy and safe to hinge although the foresters usually prefer they be treated with Tordon after hinging.



I like to cut at least somewhat on an angle because if trees start to tip the wrong way, they will stop and rest again the angle and that allows me to simply push most of them over but each sawyer can choose the method they feel comfortable with.



These are pretty typical "hinges"





TSI work requires releasing the best crop tree so in some cases that means killing one or more red or white oaks and in doing so I find that red oaks rarely survive hinging, they are too brittle and even small trees tend to break off. White oaks however seem to hinge well and both send up an explosion of new sprouts from the cut stump so even though the tree may break off...all is not lost!

We also select trees with "problems"...signs of decay that indicate a rotten interior and those trees also are unlikely to survive hinging such as is the case with this red oak.



I find hinging trees on an angle to be extremely safe and because I usually work alone I wouldn't do so if it were not. Regardless of how one does it however "stuff" happens as tree tops tangle and that can cause the tree to twist and turn and do something unexpected. For that reason I am careful to have an escape to step away from the tree as it starts to tip over...this tree is one such case as the top caught another and it twisted on the way down.



Others are relatively easy and as long as there is a sliver connecting the trunk to the stump...they will remain alive



This an area previously hinged by the landowner more to block the view of a neighboring hunter



Notice the difference in the open foreground and the brush coming up through the downed trees in the background



My pocket camera isn't the greatest but I'll continue to share pics from various TSI jobs this winter in hopes it may give others ideas and things to think about before working on your own projects...
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The TSI job am I working on now has an area the landowner did himself last year....always fun to see what they look like a year later! The whole place is full of deer tracks thanks to abundant cover and browse from the downed trees and reduced canopy.

Some trees are bound to break off in which case they send up shoots from the stump



Others where the hinge remains intact...



send up vertical stems easily reached by deer



Either way copious amounts of new screening cover and plentiful browse is available



In the background here you can see the unhinged area and how open it is, devoid of cover and browse



Compared to the hinged area where I can see only a few yards rather then hundreds of yards



He hinged some sizable trees in this area and because of that really opened up canopy!



The leaves are still obvious on this hinged tree!



A chainsaw sure makes a difference in these open timber settings!
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Some pretty good sized trees' were tipped over last year in this hinged area!



This is pretty common when hinging shagbarks...they stay pretty high up!



Simply reducing canopy allows the whole area to become a whitetail haven!



The bed in it and feed in it



the one thing they don't do however



is travel through it



there is a beat down runway following around the exterior but one could easily cut a path through the hinge cuts if need be.



This is the area we are working on now...wide open...no cover...no feed...no reason for deer to be there!



It easy to see how heavily hinged areas can succeed in funneling deer around them so with a little thought you can leave a narrow, natural travel corridor open by a stand. Traveling bucks will choose the open route even though they might at other times of the year bed in the hinged areas...
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In the timber where I am doing TSI now the stand consists of mostly white and red oaks with a smattering of hickories and elms mixed in. It's already been logged and that has opened up canopy already so my first target is the shade tolerant weed tree...ironwood!



I'm hinging every one of those I see



and then "messing it up" by hinging some of the co-dominate species like hickory and elm



Some places are thicker



others not so much simply because there is not much to work with



TSI is crop tree release that in cases like this is primarily weed tree removal and under the cost share agreement there must be a minimum of X number of crop trees per acre so the forester sets guidelines in the Forest Stewardship Plan that we must follow to receive cost share.

It is important when we have good oak and/or walnut stands not to destroy the stand itself and opening up canopy too much can do just that. Open grown oak seedlings will have poor timber value because they will have limbs instead of a tall straight trunk (open grown oak = Savannah oak)

Every timber is different and for that reason being guided by a competent forester is extremely important
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Another day of TSI/hinging...girdling larger trees to release crop trees and hinging smaller weed trees



It doesn't take long to turn an open area



into a dense thicket of cover



That will erupt with new growth this spring



Allowing sunlight to the forest floor will allow young oaks to survive and plenty of forbs and new browse to grow.



I have cut for 2 weeks straight from dawn til dark, a vary diverse species of trees and thus far not a single tree has done anything but tip over. The angle cut keeps them from tipping backwards and they simply fall over but please be safe an start with smaller trees first. Experiment with the species of weed trees in your timber and decide which method of cut seems to work well for you.

Remember chainsaw chaps, helmet with face protection and if possible wait for warm days without snow. It is important to be able to move back and snow can make it slippery and easy to loose your footing, especially on steep slopes common here in SE Iowa.

Ice cleats on your boots can be helpful when working in snow so consider giving those a try and if at all possible, take someone with you for safety reasons.....
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I'll try to put some of these in the appropriate threads but here are just a few cost share options to consider for various forest improvement practices. Be certain to read the EQIP practice link carefully and note that simple wording can double a payment per acre!!

Iowa only....REAP Practices must be approved by IDNR Forester and paid once inspected by the IDNR Forester and bill submitted.

TSI - Timber Stand Improvement 5 acre minimum - allowed $160 an acre X 75% =$120

Tree Planting - 3 acre minimum $600 allowed per acre X 75% = $450

Tree Planting/Weed Tree Removal - $160/$600 x 75% (weed tree removal may be less acres then total planted)

Federal Programs...these two have identical practices but EQIP practices allowed are different by county/state while WHIP is nationwide.

Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP)
Wildlife Habitat Incentive Program (WHIP)
Check by State

The following is just a brief list of a few of the options available...check this link for the complete list and the payment rates.

2011 Iowa EQIP Practices and Payments

314 Brush Management (weed tree removal)

647 Early Successional Habitat Development/Management (Timber Edge Feathering)

490 Forest Site Preparation

666 Forest Stand Improvement (TSI or Weed Tree removal)

422 Hedgerow Planting

338 Prescribed Burning

391 Riparian Forest Buffer

612 Tree and Shrub Establishment

380 Windbreak or Shelterbelt Establishment

In all cases either the forester or NRCS Tech will need to inspect the finished practice beore the operator/landowner can be paid. Usually a simple bill will suffice (10 acres TSI X $160 for example) but in some cases they will want an itemized (seedlings, herbicides, fuel, labor etc) that add up to the total cost share.

The federal programs are not cost share, just a payment per acre so slightly different then the state programs.

Talk with NRCS and your local forester/private land biologist for more details but even they get confused, so look over the links and be informed yourself!
 
Just a few pics of the hinges themselves from the job I have been working on lately...









I work fast and furious because I have so much to do but those who have more time and help can play around and experiment with different cuts, heights, direction of fall etc. and see what works best for them and then...check back next winter and see if any of that really made a difference to the deer or not?
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