Broadleaf selective herbicide
- Thread starter David
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Tap
Well-Known Member
I know a farmer in Iowa and he said they've had their best thistle kill when the spray it just at bud stage. I guess it depends on what herbicide you use. Raptor, for example, is to be applied when weeds are young. I tried Raptor and I tried gly on young thistle. It did not work. After a few days, it looks like the crap is dying. After 2 weeks it looks dead. A month later, root re-sprouts are everywhere. Just because the top looks dead or dying doesn't mean you've killed the roots. Ya gotta kill the roots!
I know it's hard to not attack hated weeds as soon as we see them, but I'm beginning to think that allowing Canada Thistle to get more mature before spraying (with something stronger than roundup) could be the better way. That approach seems to be working for me.
I know it's hard to not attack hated weeds as soon as we see them, but I'm beginning to think that allowing Canada Thistle to get more mature before spraying (with something stronger than roundup) could be the better way. That approach seems to be working for me.
Me neither, since my clover is kura that took great pains to get established and theoretically will last forever.
Raptor is the ticket for me. Buy under the cheaper “Clearcast”name and follow the Raptor label closely. Takes a little while but works wonderfully.
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Canada Thistle is evil stuff. In addition to Raptor, I would carefully gly hand spray each plant, and be prepared to do it over and over. It won’t die until all the energy stored in the deep roots has been exhausted.
I fought it in my lawn for several years. Eventually you get the upper hand. Spring and fall gly spraying is key. The spring makes it waste stored energy used to push up a new plant - the fall sends gly down into the roots as the plant stores energy for next year.
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I fought it in my lawn for several years. Eventually you get the upper hand. Spring and fall gly spraying is key. The spring makes it waste stored energy used to push up a new plant - the fall sends gly down into the roots as the plant stores energy for next year.
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David
Active Member
update on this plot.....
The 24DB did its job, plantain and thistles were eradicated. However it certainly stunted the clover also.
dead thistles....
dead plantain, and a dead thistle adjacent to it...
however you can see the clover is looking sick (pictures all taken march 31st). the next two pictures are each of a leaflet of apache arrowleaf clover, one is stunted severely. The second one is beautiful, it is in a plot that did not get sprayed.
The last picture is the plot yesterday....oats are doing wonderful, the crimson recovered, the arrowleaf never really recovered, but the ladino is healthy.
the clover mix was initially:
• 30% Crimson Clover
• 30% Ladino Grazing Clover
• 30% Arrowleaf Clover
• 10% Alfalfa
i will try to remember to update again at the end of the summer to see how the ladino is doing.
The 24DB did its job, plantain and thistles were eradicated. However it certainly stunted the clover also.
dead thistles....
dead plantain, and a dead thistle adjacent to it...
however you can see the clover is looking sick (pictures all taken march 31st). the next two pictures are each of a leaflet of apache arrowleaf clover, one is stunted severely. The second one is beautiful, it is in a plot that did not get sprayed.
The last picture is the plot yesterday....oats are doing wonderful, the crimson recovered, the arrowleaf never really recovered, but the ladino is healthy.
the clover mix was initially:
• 30% Crimson Clover
• 30% Ladino Grazing Clover
• 30% Arrowleaf Clover
• 10% Alfalfa
i will try to remember to update again at the end of the summer to see how the ladino is doing.
Last edited:
Tap
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the top of the thistle is dead, but I've been fighting that crap for a long time and just when I think I've killed it all, I go back in a week or so only to find lots of new ones popping up because the roots are still alive.
Top kill does not necessarily mean root kill. Don't get complacent with the stuff. Keep an eye on it.
catscratch
Well-Known Member
I've read that for pasture management of thistle a spring (rosette stage) spraying of 2-4d will do the trick. Is this not consistent with your guys's findings? I did a lot of spot spraying last summer but have some patches getting out of hand. Was planning on a 2-4d spraying this weekend...
Tap
Well-Known Member
I'm not very experienced with 2-4,D but I have used some other herbicides that are pretty potent on thistle. I've used Milestone which is good but soil residue is pretty long. I've used Tordon...also good but soil active. I didn't have long term luck with 2-4,DB, and strong gly didn't get a deep kill either. And I add AMS and surfactant, too.
As of now, the best stuff I've used is Clopralid3 that I got from Keystone. Wes said they are having good results with C3. I've sprayed every herbicide that I've tried at all times from rosette thru fall. The C3 label says that it can be applied all the way to bud stage. I like that aspect. I know that some weeds are better controlled with late spraying just before the plant sends energy into the roots for the winter so it absorbs more chemical deep into the root system.
I have strong suspicions that Canada thistle has a more extensive root system than we realize. I can eradicate it much better out in the middle of plots than I can around the edges of plots. I believe that when I spray the edge thistle, the herbicide isn't getting all the back to the mother root. But with the thistle out in the middle of the plot, I get the herbicide into the roots from all sides. I can't prove this theory, but it seems that the thistle along the edges is the stuff that returns the soonest. I have a regular battle with it along the edge of my switchgrass. Even with 7 foot tall, and thick switch, thistle still survives in there and is difficult to locate and cover with herbicide. I can top kill the edge thistle around the outside of the switch, but the herbicide doesn't completely penetrate back to kill the mother root, and the stuff returns.
The thistle here is under way better control than it used to be, but there's always little spots here and there that try to regenerate. Never relax and think it's gone...it lurks.
catscratch
Well-Known Member
^^^ thanks for the reply!
Tap
Well-Known Member
Cap'n
Active Member
I would be surprised if you could kill it with just 2-4-d. The best I've seen on hard to kill broadleaf is Aquasweep. It is 2-4-d with triclopyr . The Triclopyr has geat root activity. Canada thistle isn't on the label but I have guys spraying it right now on thistle and it is real good on it. And it has an aquatics label if you have a pond with weeds. It kills bind weed and wild violets and their tuberous root systems are the toughest kind.
Spray on a humid morning when there is good soil moisture for the weed to grow for best results. It may take 2 app. It goes for $125 / 2.5 gal
http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld9U1000.pdf
A similar product is called Chaser.
I would use the C3 as stated above. It is from the same family of herbicides as Milestone and Tordon. All three have soil residual and are deadly on thistle AND legumes. Labels usually state 12 to 18 months before you can put any clovers or beans back in. However C3 is the only one labeled to be safe for turnips, so as long as your fine with oats and turnips for 12 to 18 months C3 will solve your problem.
catscratch
Well-Known Member
Found some at the local farm store. $35 per gallon, worth a shot.
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Tap
Well-Known Member
I looked on the Clopyralid label and I can't find anything that it's safe ON turnips or safe for follow up planting of turnips. It could be hidden in the label/directions and I just missed it.
I'm using Allagare brand. Can you share any more info on turnip safety?
Its well published that Clopyralid is used for broad leaf control for the brassicas family.
http://msdssearch.dow.com/Published...h=uk/pdfs/noreg/011-01895.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc
For the Allagare brand look under the Field Bioassay Instructions. It will list sugar beats as a Clopyralid tolerant plant.
http://msdssearch.dow.com/Published...h=uk/pdfs/noreg/011-01895.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc
For the Allagare brand look under the Field Bioassay Instructions. It will list sugar beats as a Clopyralid tolerant plant.
Tap
Well-Known Member
Thanks brother!
