Conductivity

I recently got results back on soil samples from 7 small food plots (all less than 1 acre). Two things stood out to me.

First, and much to my surprise, sulfur shows to be at or above the recommended level in all plots. I wasn’t really expecting this. This made me wonder if adding gypsum would be beneficial for other worthwhile reasons or not. Any thoughts on this?

Second, all of my plots registered very low conductivity. This was true even in my better performing plots that have what looks to me like pretty decent soil. I do have some newer plots that really struggle, and the conductivity in those plots was the lowest. Weeds even struggled to grow in those plots before I started planting winter rye and crimson clover in them 2 seasons ago. I don’t have a good understanding of soil conductivity, how important it is to food plot success and how best to raise it when it’s really low...assuming there are good reasons to attempt to raise it. Any feedback on this would be appreciated.

First time i remember someone asking about this. Im in for the answer.

Low soil conductivity is a good thing. It's a measure correlated to soil salinity. High soil salinity = high soil conductivity, not a good thing. Salinity can come from different sources, especially from irrigation water if your not close to the coast like I am.
https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_053280.pdf

I'm not sure of your question about sulfur. Rain washing pollution from the air can supply sulfur. I'm not sure of the impacts of high levels of it. I'm always at the other, low, end.

I just quickly scanned this:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAXegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0WPNgfh14kbnzmrorWbmQm

Mr Dan's post above seems to be a good summary

Always interesting to talk soils especially for us that manage in areas less than ideal. Personally, as far as soil tests, the most important for me in order is ph, CEC, OM, and then I pay some attention to the major and minor nutrient readings. If one concerns them selves with those first three I listed, then everything else begins to fall in place.
For the first time in 8 years my ph began to dip below 6 after my initial treatments. Due to record rain year 18 and now '19, I havent' been able to access for spreading lime. With that drop in ph, it is easy to watch a much more influx of weeds and grasses and less production of my deer plot forage. My point... if one works on maintaining their ph, and try to improve CEC and OM with proper crop rotations, then the other soil requirements require less effort and are more successful with amendments given.
Not saying salinity readings don't matter, just that except in extreme instances, the least of worries particularly in less than ideal soils.

DIY said:

I recently got results back on soil samples from 7 small food plots (all less than 1 acre). Two things stood out to me.

First, and much to my surprise, sulfur shows to be at or above the recommended level in all plots. I wasn’t really expecting this. This made me wonder if adding gypsum would be beneficial for other worthwhile reasons or not. Any thoughts on this?

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Are your plots on wet ground? Any chance you could post your results?

MarkDarvin said:

Are your plots on wet ground? Any chance you could post your results?

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2 of the 7 plots are on wet ground. This plot has the lowest conductivity and has really struggled the last 2 years. It's not on wet ground. I have been working on the pH, but still have a ways to go. However, some of the other plots are pH 6.0 or less and have done much better than this one with the super low conductivity.

DIY said:

2 of the 7 plots are on wet ground. This plot has the lowest conductivity and has really struggled the last 2 years. It's not on wet ground. I have been working on the pH, but still have a ways to go. However, some of the other plots are pH 6.0 or less and have done much better than this one with the super low conductivity.

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What kind of lime were you putting on? What kind of nitrogen were you putting on (if you did)? Is this ground sandy, clay, or something in between?

You've got some missing information, but I'd be sure to get a calcitic lime for the rest of your pH work. You may just be struggling with too much magnesium. Building up your potassium could help too.

I'd go back to the basics with easy species until you start seeing some improvements. A good three way blend or rotation of broadleaves, grasses, and legumes should get it going once you get your last shot of lime on.

I used pelletized lime from Tractor Supply...many bags of it. Ground is something in between sandy and clay. I didn't add any nitrogen since I used clover, but maybe I should have.

DIY said:

I used pelletized lime from Tractor Supply...many bags of it. Ground is something in between sandy and clay. I didn't add any nitrogen since I used clover, but maybe I should have.

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I suspected as much. Nothing wrong with the tractor supply lime. I use that very product on my place, but I'm quite sandy and need the magnesium.

If you're near a Home Depot, you can get calcitic lime there (if they stock it locally anyway). Look for "Pavestone" pell lime.

Thanks for the advice. It turns out there’s a Mennonite community near our lease and the feed mill there sells pelletized calcitic lime, so that will be an easy change to make.