Edge feathering to promote both screening and bedding

BenAllgood

Well-Known Member
For those of you who have successfully edge feathered for both screening and bedding, what are some tips you used to promote that?
 
I can tell you what I did and hopefully it helps. I have a 2 acre plot in the middle of the timber the entire edge is clover transitioning to timber so a very hard edge. I let native warm season grasses grow up along the edge of the plot this year. Then girdled and sprayed every big tree for the first 10-15 yards along the edge. Then after the 10-15 yard mark I would girdle and spray every other tree or based off if the trees will eventually reach logging size and make the best log. Any smaller trees in that zone I either cut down and piled or hinged over to create instant cover and blockades to direct deer movement. I plan to transplant some cedars this spring as well to try and get as much cover as I can around the plot.
 
I can tell you what I did and hopefully it helps. I have a 2 acre plot in the middle of the timber the entire edge is clover transitioning to timber so a very hard edge. I let native warm season grasses grow up along the edge of the plot this year. Then girdled and sprayed every big tree for the first 10-15 yards along the edge. Then after the 10-15 yard mark I would girdle and spray every other tree or based off if the trees will eventually reach logging size and make the best log. Any smaller trees in that zone I either cut down and piled or hinged over to create instant cover and blockades to direct deer movement. I plan to transplant some cedars this spring as well to try and get as much cover as I can around the plot.
Did you get any to bed there yet, or has it not grown up enough yet?
 
Ben, one thing you can do is hinge cut a few trees around the edge but not enough to block travel lanes. I'm talking about an irregular edge where some hinged trees will extend out into the field and others may lay along the edge of the woods. In our area, you should get some honeysuckle growing up on the hinged trees at some places, which adds to the effect. You should also get some blackberry briers and saplings coming up in the tops. This isn't what I would call a typical feathered edge, but it is effective in a lot of ways. As the tree tops eventually die you will be left with a soft edge of briers, honeysuckle and saplings.
 
I have found a bed here and there, but my place also has absolutely zero bedding cover in its current state (working on it). But I don't want the deer to bed on the edge of my plot either. Just want to surround the plot in cover so they feel more comfortable to use the plot during daylight hours. And by doing this hopefully I can force them to walk within bow range.
 
Ben, one thing you can do is hinge cut a few trees around the edge but not enough to block travel lanes. I'm talking about an irregular edge where some hinged trees will extend out into the field and others may lay along the edge of the woods. In our area, you should get some honeysuckle growing up on the hinged trees at some places, which adds to the effect. You should also get some blackberry briers and saplings coming up in the tops. This isn't what I would call a typical feathered edge, but it is effective in a lot of ways. As the tree tops eventually die you will be left with a soft edge of briers, honeysuckle and saplings.
Thanks Steve. My main goal is needing to get to stands without being seen. Right now and until my prairie grows up, I know deer are bedding right inside the treeline and see my approach. I find lots if beds there. I want them to still bed on that inside shelf if the hollows at the field edge, but screen it so they don't see me.
 
Thanks Steve. My main goal is needing to get to stands without being seen. Right now and until my prairie grows up, I know deer are bedding right inside the treeline and see my approach. I find lots if beds there. I want them to still bed on that inside shelf if the hollows at the field edge, but screen it so they don't see me.

Okay, I understand you need better now. You are really looking more for screening. Waiting on the prairie may be your best bet. If you could get some tall native, volunteer weeds like or local goldenrod, marestail and ironweed to come up, that might be enough to effectively screen you. Usually you will see a few of those in the second year after planting a prairie. Good luck.
 
I have 120ft of CP33 planted in switch around my field and it helps until heavy snow then can fall some.Only bad part is I have to have several different winds to burn them
 
I have 120ft of CP33 planted in switch around my field and it helps until heavy snow then can fall some.Only bad part is I have to have several different winds to burn them
I have a pollinator planting in my fields that is going to be in its second year this spring. I'm about to burn it now. There's not really any heavy snow on my farm. Like Native said, I'll have decent screening soon from that, but I will edge feather the plot edges in the next couple of weeks. Those are hard edges that I want them to bed against plus screen. My pollinator planting should screen the rest of my field edges. Anywhere there is not a foodplot on my woodline is pollinator plants mixed with NWSG.
 
In PA we get enough rain that edge feathering readily grows on it's own if given a little help and sunshine, but I'm guessing that it's likely not this easy in drier regions.
To create edge feathering I take my tractor into a plot in late winter, keeping perpendicular to the tree line, and using the front end loader up high to tip edge trees into the woods. This does multiple good things to a plot, including making edge, plus allowing more sunshine and water for crops, and potential late winter twig browse for deer, and possibly future stump sprouts at the edge of a plot. For bigger trees sometimes we may use a chainsaw to help the process along. Note that a cab tractor is an absolute must for this type of work, due to the danger of something coming back on top of the tractor. Tall dead stubs are particularly dangerous, and the top section can break of and fall back towards the field. Work slowly, ease into a tree in the lowest gear, and keep a careful eye on the stuff you are pushing to watch for potential kickbacks, and don't use a chainsaw on bigger trees unless you know what you are doing.
 
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